La Crosse River Trail - Sparta to Rockland

     I often have grand plans.  Whether in boots or boats I lay plans in my head my body could likely never navigate.  So, then, I make lesser plans – ones that I can probably manage.  I have to scale those back further as that elusive day off approaches.  There are only so many miles that can be traversed in a single 18 hour period.  A 15 mile hike on the IAT would fit nicely.  Three hours driving there, 6 hours on the trail, and then the three hour drive to get back home before bed time. 

     As the day off approaches, perhaps two weeks away, a school event plants itself squarely in the middle of that day.  That trip across the state for a 15 miler is out, but maybe the Experimental Forest or county land.  A good 6 to 8 miles in the woods could take place during the 5 hours between drop-off and pick-up.   Grand plans.

    December 27^th was just such a day.  I had grand plans.  Wife at work, kids had nothing on the schedule, and I had the day off.  Three weeks ahead of time I scoured the IAT trail maps looking for something I could manage in winter weather.  Looking for 8 to 12 miles of trail, maybe 3 or 4 more on the road to get back to the car.  Two or three hour drive would make the day off one worth having off.

     Grand plans were set for Thursday December 28^th.  On December 21^st those plans were dashed.  I was suddenly on the hook to get both kids off to a school event, one they really shouldn’t miss.  That would be no problem as I would just switch to the day before, the 27^th.  That wouldn’t work either.  Again, chauffer duty called.  Oh, by the way, the weekend was already off limits as there were family plans for both Saturday and Sunday.  Grand plans were not to be.  My vacation days would be spent carting kids around town.

     There are two types of you out there and both types are chuckling right now.  One of you sympathizes and sees your own daily situation painted broadly in my words.  Others of you are chuckling at what you see as a complete buckling of self.  Don’t just chuckle, laugh – both of you.  Neither point of view is even one smidgen towards begin wrong. 

     We all make choices, or allow choices to be made for us.  I made the choice to be chauffer and give my time generously to my immediate family 10 years ago.  That’s not to say I give it freely and happily.  I chafe and fight with myself.  I complain and grouse.  I sigh and get on with it.  I’m a selfish person who craves time alone.  I’m also happiest with the world when concerns are managed with responsibility and fairness.  Duality in personality simply makes life so very interesting.  To put it more eloquently, it is what it is and I do what I have to do.

     What I had to do on the 27^th was hike, somewhere close by, and something longer than 4 or 5 miles.  One little walk I had wanted to do during the summer months was the bike trail between Sparta and Rockland.  Six miles separates the cross-roads town of Rockland and the growing small city of Sparta.  Most of my interest in travelling the 12 mile pancake flat route has to do with getting a good view of the new silica sand mind right along the trail.

     I am no fan of mines.  If I had a beautiful solution to extracting the necessary materials to get on in our modern world that did not involve mining I might just die a happy man.  I abhor them.  As a growing conservationist mines and dams are simply two of the worst things we humans can do to the environment.  Still, like gawking at 8 car pile-up on the opposite side of the freeway I wanted to see the mine.

     At 10:00 on the button I was walking away from the parking lot on Water St and heading West on the trail.  Work was on-going adding in railway track to service the sand mine.  The bank said the temp was 14F and I believe it.  Almost no wind, but light flurries added an element of weather.  The first mile along the trail goes past the trailer park and under Highway 27.  Once past that it does not even seem like walking through a town.  Woods and field are on both sides, but to the North is a large portion of homes.  Turkey huddled in the corner of one farmers hay field with interstate just in sight on the other side.  By 10:30 I’d gone a little more than a mile, still inside Sparta city limits.  Amundsen Park lies just to North, across the tracks, behind a stand of pine, and then across the river.  The park is maybe 300yds from the trail.  This is a quiet little forgotten park bordering the La Crosse River.  A gravel parking lot with just a few picnic benches and a playground make up the entrance to the park.  The rest is woods and river.

Just leaving parking lot

Turkey!!

     Three minutes later I’m at the sand mine.  Some years ago benches were placed every two miles along the trail between Sparta and Bangor.  The bench I stood by at this point once looked across the road.  Past the road was a field that alternated between corn and beans.  The first set of visible trees hide the La Crosse River from view.  Past the trees the hills and bluffs North of Sparta commanded the horizon.  This was a great place to take a break and watch birds play and cloud scud by.

     The right-most 10 degrees of vision still take in field and trees.  The other 170 degrees are only of piles of sand and large structures of the sand mine.  Another 200m down the trail is a nicely painted wood sign that reads “La Crosse River Prairie State Natural Area.”  There is no prairie.  There is a pasture field and barn to the South and the sand mine to the North.  There is nothing else but the trail itself.

     At 10:42 I hit mile post 21 which put me at exactly two miles out.  The sand mine is almost behind me and as I cross the intersection of three roads it will be.  There are a couple of roads that are worth travelling in this little stretch between the Interstate and Hwy 16.  I like to take the motorcycle out here.  Although flat as a pancake, and populated, the countryside is still charming.  The road that has been paralleling the trail since Sparta is now called Iband Ave.  At this intersection it turns into Hammer (heading north) and Icebox (heading south).  Then, right at the interstate Iberia intersects Icebox to head West into Rockland. 

     Hammer parallels the trail for less than a quarter mile before abruptly turning north and meeting Hwy 16.  Hammer is mostly wooded with a few houses along the way.  Most notably it crosses the La Crosse River.  Although entirely private property along Hammer I still dream about disappearing into the small bits of woodland behind those houses.

 

     I hit the bridge crossing the Little La Crosse River right at 11:00.  The three mile mark is just on the West side of the bridge.  This is the most picturesque spot along the trail.  Although the Interstate can be viewed looking south it is easy to ignore.  The sound is a little less easy to ignore, but being nearly a half mile away helps some.  This little river meanders from the bluffs between Melvina and Cashton before meeting up with the La Crosse River about 500m from the bridge I was now on.  This is a handy little trout stream that garners moderate attention from anglers, especially along Hwy 27 South of Sparta.

Little La Crosse

Mike on the bridge

     A 10 minute break and it was time to push on.  As usual I keep up my battle between being too hot and not having my sweat freeze.  The worst aspect is that my back becomes soaked with sweat from the backpack.  On a windy day I can often get that to dry out while I rest, but in the meantime I have to be cold.  Survival specialists will tell you that in the winter you do not want to sweat.  Sweat is deadly.  I understand the notion.  Eventually, being wet, you are at a serious risk for hypothermia.  To not sweat would require not moving and not wearing clothing.  I haven’t died yet, but I do have to regulate my body temp constantly.  My wife has an Osprey day pack that does not fit her.  It has the aluminum frame with mesh that keeps the backpack off your back.  It’s smaller than my day pack, but I have to try that out sometime.  I also need to get her a pack that fits.

     About 25 minutes later the trail crosses over Iberia.  Iberia has been on the other side of woods and fields since the last intersection of roads.  The road will not parallel the trail, but on the North side, both making their way into Rockland.  Immediately after the intersection is the LoriLynn Tree Farm, a very popular place between Thanksgiving and Christmas.  On weekends the road is almost impassable with cars and trucks parked on both sides of the narrow strip of pavement.

     The countryside since leaving the sand mine has been mostly wooded and wetlands.   Continuing past the intersection with Iberia the wooded feel continues with the tree farm to the North and the small hills and woods to the South.  The hills and woods to the South are only about 300m deep and conceal the west-bound rest area of I-90.

     I drive that stretch of I-90 nearly every day and I found it unique to see things from this other vantage point. 

     At 11:32 I hit four miles and 11:50 hit five miles.  Along the way has mostly been bits of woods and fields.  An occasional farm house pokes into view between narrow stands of oak and pine.  Near the five mile mark there is a series of dirt paths that cross the trail and tracks diving into the woods on either side.  I’m not sure if these access farm fields and there is no snowmobile trail here except the bike trail.  The land is not fenced, as it usually is with private property.  Something worth exploring on the satellite view some time.  I like to explore these little side trails, but tromping on somebody’s private property can be sketchy.  Some folks don’t mind a hiker just going through, but others will take out a rifle and point it in your direction.

     I crossed into La Crosse County at 11:55.  Rockland begins here and the hardwood mill has been visible for a minute or two.

     The trail since Sparta had been a mix of hard packed snow and frozen gravel.  Following a significant dropping of snow two weeks earlier there had been a few days in the upper 30’s.  This left the trail a patchwork of dirt and snow.  I tried to walk on dirt wherever possible.  Walking on the snow, even hard-packed, takes twice as much effort as walking on dirt and rock.

     Then, at 12:11 I hit the trail head in Rockland.  I’d covered six miles and fortunately there is a bench and picnic table.  I got out of my wet shirts and put on the dry ones I’d brought along.  I did that quickly as right across the road in full view are houses.  They are close enough that I could easily toss a rock through their living room windows.  Nobody needs to see me without a shirt on, particularly a stranger.  Let the feet dry out a bit before they become cold.  I cleared the snow off the bench and used my old rain jacket as a seat cover.  Ate my PBJ sandwich, grapes, and drank my Coke.  Then I got to the business of stretching out my left leg and hip and lower back.  Shortly after the rest area my left thigh started to give up the ghost.  The hip followed shortly there-after and by Rockland I was in a bit of hurt.  I hoped I could stretch them out.  The temps and low wind made it possible to rest for pretty much as long as I needed to, although not comfortably.  Being able to lie down would have been best.

     The trailhead in Rockland has a sheltered board with some trail maps posted to it, but they also have some history on the board.  The history of Rockland was the rail and the board describes the history of the mail deliveries in Rockland.  Even if you happen to just be driving by, stop and give the board a read.

     Speaking of trains, I’d not had any rail activity until I reached the fifth mile at 11:50.  Since then three trains had passed.  I would have two more go by on the way back to Sparta.

     I started back at 12:32, figuring I’d spent enough time in the cold and my leg and hip were not going to get better without a significant break and lying down.  To boot, my lower back was acting up which is something that usually does not occur after I get going.  That is, until I’ve become fatigued – maybe 10 or 12 miles in. 

Just outside Sparta

     The way back did becoming increasingly more difficult.  I could not wait to get to the Little La Crosse River bridge where I’d be able to drop my pack and try to stretch.  Stretching, though, was not helping today.  The thigh was now beginning to cramp and my wet socks (which I should have changed in Rockland) were starting to cause blisters.  I passed the sand mine at 14:07 and just decided to keep pushing.  At 14:36 I’d made the parking lot again. 

 

     An easy 12 mile jaunt, but I was left struggling the last 4 miles with that left leg and hip.  This has to get better or every year I’ll be forced shorter and shorter.  Still, I’d seen the mine, viewed the Little La Crosse, and made the miles.  I’d have preferred a grand adventure, but sometimes the small adventures are what are available.  I’ll take that every time.

Ice Age Trail - Firth Lake & Harwood Lakes

GPS Track (gpx format)

      Columbus Day had been a perennial day off with the company that owns our little shop.   The last two years in a row I was not able to take the day off, but this year the day was mostly all clear for me.  In honor of Columbus the explorer I set off to do some exploring of my own.  Hopefully, my trip would not involve disease, murder, slavery, and impetuous royalty. 

      I vacillated between two parts of the Ice Age Trail in Chippewa and Taylor Counties, finally deciding on connecting to the hike I’d done in August.

      The Firth Lake and Harwood Lakes segments run from a county highway on the West side of the river from Cornell striking across field and forest before ending at Plummer Lake.   The hike in August took me from the Chippewa Moraine Visitor’s Center to Plummer Lake. 

      The day would entail dropping the car off at Plummer Lake, biking to the parking area on County CC, and then hiking back to the car.  If you’ve read previous entries you’ll know that my sciatica issues make biking a very difficult endeavor.  Biking was never my strong point, but “back in the day” hopping on the bike and putting in 30 or 40 miles was a long ride, but nothing to hesitate at.  A couple hour ride at a moderate pace was all that was.  The 7 mile bike shuttle for the Chippewa Moraine hike was quite a challenge.  My left leg was unsteady for about a mile of hiking before it loosened up.  I was encouraged that the 3 miles Ruth and I did at Merrimac went so very easy.  This bike shuttle would be 12.5 miles.  The only option was to hike shorter.  I just didn’t want to hike 6 miles.  On these day hikes the pack is only about 12 to 15 pounds.  If I managed the hills wisely I’d make it.  Boy, here I go.

     I watched the forecast leading up to the Monday and the day before the forecast for Cornell was very promising.  The weather man called for a high of 60 with clear skies in the AM, becoming cloudy PM, rain in the late evening.    The only weather concern was that the low was going to be around 30deg.  The bike would be cold.  The hike would be nice and cool.  The other concern was that this is Wisconsin and late evening rain could mean mid-morning just as easily.

     I left the house at 04:15 under completely clear skies with the stars studded brilliantly overhead.  The temp in Sparta was 34F.  The trip up North was uneventful and I arrived at Plummer Lake at 06:55.  Dawn was just beginning to seep on the horizon.  Visibility was improving with every minute.  By the time I left on the bike at 07:03 I had no worries about being seen on the road.  The temperature in Bloomer registered 33F.  On the bike I was wearing three layers on top, sweat pants on the bottom, hat and gloves with liners.  I took one last look at the half moon sitting above the lake and biked away.

     Despite the cold temps I really never felt cold.  In fact, only 2 or 3 miles into the bike and I was rolling up my hat and zipping down the outside sweatshirt.  Along the way there was scattered frost.  There was almost no wind, and what breeze there was came out of the West and at my back.  The route cruises up and down County M to County CC.  This almost perfectly parallels the hiking route.  I was feeling very good on the bike.  The hip and thigh were handling the moderate hills well enough.  There came a point, though, after about 6 miles were my left leg just couldn’t go anymore.  The thigh was tightening up and becoming very uncomfortable.  I got off and walked for about 5 minutes.

     I had some time pressures with this.  I needed to be back in Sparta by 18:00 to pick up the oldest from practice.  That meant I needed to be off the trail by 15:30 at the very latest.  I needed to be at the parking area and ready to hike by 08:15.  After 8 miles it was clear that was not going to happen.  After walking for that 5 minute period my left recovered some, but not more than a couple minutes on the bike and it was happening again.  I could tell the last 4 miles were going to be a struggle.  There is a very long hill on County CC.  Halfway up I bailed and walked.  All of this wasting time, but if I pulled a thigh muscle I’d be in a real pinch.

          The sun was breaking during the bike throwing an amber glow over the un-harvested corn and beans.  There was not a cloud to be seen as the sun rose over the hills on the other side of the river.  As I turned South on County CC the West was now visible.  A large front was moving in and the Western sky was a thick dark gray.

      At 08:39 I finally pulled into the parking area that hosts the trail heads for the Firth Lake and Chippewa River segments.  I needed a break and after putting the bike up and readying for the hike I flopped on the ground for a few minutes to stretch.  At 08:54 I was ready to go, but I was a good 30 minutes behind.  The bike took nearly twice as long as I had supposed it would or should.  Somehow I’m going to have to figure out how to bike with this condition.

Start of Firth Lake Trail

     The trail starts off skirting along fields and diving into forest before skirting more fields.  Step-overs are nicely placed at each fence crossing.  In one case there is an insulated handle to open the electric fence.  Be sure to replace!  Leaves completely covered the rugged trail, making turning an ankle easy.  About a mile in the trail goes into forest with significant blow-down.  This was the first time of the day that took the wrong path for about 100ft before turning around and finding the yellow blaze again.  Between the downed tree and the leaves the trail completely disappeared for about 200 yards.



The trail is actually a footpath to left of the two trees on the left.



     I hit the boundary between the private land and the SIATA boundary at 09:50.  The terrain so far has been very flat, even in the forested portion.   In the SIATA land the trail picks through the forest heading towards the South end of Firth Lake.  The trail has been 99% footpath and has been maintained, but rugged.  I considered this a special treat.   The trail becomes a boardwalk for a little bit as it sidles Firth Lake.  I could see a very large hornet’s nest in a tree.  I could not get a good position for a picture. 



Boardwalk on South End of Firth Lake



Firth Lake

      I had had communication with the chapter head a few days before to make sure the private land owners were amiable towards hikers and I wouldn’t be messing up somebody’s bow hunting.  He had mentioned that there was new parking area on the North end of Firth Lake.  I hit that at 10:15 and found a car parked there.  Shortly thereafter I came across two folks working on shoring up a drainage across the trail.  One of them was a trail adopter for the Harwood Lakes segment.  I felt a bit guilty that they were working and I was hiking.  I suppose I could have abandoned my plans for hiking and got to work.  Maybe I should have.  Regardless, I pushed on.  I was becoming very aware that time was slipping away.  I had hoped to make up some time on the trail by taking advantage of the flat terrain and that I’m a stud.  The ruggedness of the trail counterbalanced the terrain and that I’m not a stud counterbalanced the other.

      I normally take a break every hour, particularly if I’m climbing in the mountains.  Even on flat hikes I try to take a 5 minute break every hour and 10 to 20 minute break every three or four hours.  I hit the West boundary of the SIATA land at 10:26 and hadn’t stopped yet.  This was beginning to tell on my legs and back, but I felt pressured to push on. 

      The exertion sneaks up on me when I’m out on the trail.  I get into a mode of watching, listening, and walking and little else intrudes.  I have to make a point of drinking often. 

     After leaving the SIATA land the trail immediately crosses into Chippewa County land.  The terrain becomes rolling hills and the trail shares an ATV/vehicle trail.  In addition to the terrain change most of the trees here have lost their leaves.

      I hit Moonridge Trail/245^th Trail at 11:00.  I had just passed some logging equipment (but no people.)  I was simply exhausted but had only gone 5 miles.  The bike had taken far more out of my legs than I had thought.  I dropped the pack for 12 minutes and took a break.

     The trail crosses the dirt road and takes loop into the woods before coming back out to 245^th (Moonridge Trail) and the end of the Firth Lake segment.  The coloring in the forest was fantastic.  The bright colors were largely gone by now, but the dark crimson, rust, and deep yellows painted the horizon.  The camera simply could not capture the depth of colors.  There were times where the terrain features were hard to distinguish, but there was one spot in that last little loop where everything but the tree trunks were yellow.  The leaves on the ground and the leaves on the trees were yellow.  Yellow everywhere.  I had to stand for a minute or two to try and take it in.  As I moved on I had to chuckle as the yellow metal plate of the Ice Age Trail had a yellow leaf stuck behind it.  Yellow, yellow, yellow.

Positively awesome.

     At 11:47 I dropped the pack at the end of the segment and almost took a nap.  Both legs and my back were in rough shape.  I was also about 30 minutes behind schedule.  It was pretty clear I was not going to pick up much ground.  I could not go any faster and there was no other option but to keep going forward.  The boy would have to wait a half hour.  He’d get over it.  I was disappointed, though, that I’d pushed hard and still only made 2 miles per hour.  Seven minutes later I threw the pack back on and started heading down the gravel road.  At 12:10 the gravel intersects with County E and pavement.  Despite being pavement the walk along County E was very pleasant.  A couple of rolling hills and very scenic foliage made this a quick and easy connecting route.

     The trail picks up again after 1.8 miles and by 12:27 I’d made it to the small parking area.  Two cars were parked there so I expected to see people.  I stopped about 100ft along the trail and took a short break.  The trail overlooks some small lake not named on the map.  I had hoped maybe for some ducks or something, but nothing moved on the surface.  Blackbirds in the trees and a squirrel or two were all the wildlife available there.  There is a geocache hidden just off the trail.  I happened to be looking down at that spot and saw something odd.  Had I been looking at any other minute angle I would have missed it.

     The trail now rolls up and down some short hills and winds between lakes.  Picnic Lake, Paul’s Lake and a few others.  At times the lake is on the other side of a hill, other times the trail makes a crossing over a narrow on the lake.  After crossing a drainage into Picnic Lake the trail climbs up a short steep slope and then heads along a ridge above the lake.  Oh, wait, no it doesn’t.  It takes a left turn and follows the ridge moving away from the lake.  There are several trails up on that ridge and all of them are on private land.  Some of them are on Girl Scout land.  Beware.  If you travel more than 100yds without seeing a yellow blaze, turn around and find the IAT.  You’ve left it. 

     Most of the lakes and streams are shallow and swampy.  At 13:10 the trail leaves private land again and back into the Chippewa County Forest.  The step-over is a 5ft high ladder.  I’ve never seen a step-over like that.

Crossing Picnic Lake

     Twenty minutes later the sun made its first appearance since disappearing around 9:00 in the morning.  That appearance was short lived and within 15 minutes the sky was a gray as it had ever  been the whole day.  The wind picked up considerably.  I was a little worried about rain.  In a very uncharacteristic move I left my rain jacket in the car.  I usually do not even go to work without having my rain jacket handy.  I had reckoned that I still had a good hour and half to go.  Being wet that long wouldn’t be much of a problem, but I’d be very cold that last hour if it were to rain.  The temp was not cold, but neither was it warm.  Maybe around 50F?  During the short breaks I didn’t get chilled but I did not want to sit without moving for too long either.

     Somewhere  past Deer Lake (which is about 100m into the forest beyond the trail) I heard at least three different heron.  A pair of small puddles was coming up on the map so I hoped that I’d see them.  The crossing between these puddles was a boardwalk labeled Kim’s Crossing.  I could still hear the heron.  They were on the larger of the two puddles but they were not visible.  I waited for about two minutes to see if they’d make their way over, but they did not.  No movement and no more calls either.

     The IAT guidebook talks about a glacial erratic in this area of the trail.  Turns out to be a 8ftx8ft rock just off the trail.  The path around the erratic is well worn.  Must be a favorite with kids.

     I hit Deer Fly Trail at 14:00, completely worn out.  Well, at least the legs and lower back were.  I felt like I was walking on two 2x4’s.  I had to stop and rest.  The way things looked I was going to hit the car by 15:15, so I was in pretty good shape time-wise.  About 45 minutes later I passed by Harwood Lakes.  The trail adopter I’d talked with had said that this was a good place to take a long break.  There is a peninsula that runs between the two lakes.  An un-improved camping area sits on that peninsula.  He mentioned he often sits there and almost always catches a beaver or heron in action.  Sadly, today I could not stop.  The Harwood Lakes segment is 5 miles of hiking, but would include a 7 to 8 mile bike shuttle.  Harwood Lakes, though, are only a mile from Plummer Lake.  A family could easily walk in, have a long picnic, do some fishing, and walk back out.

     As predicted I was back at the car by 15:06.  I hurriedly stowed my gear and went for my bike.

     I’d like to come back and do the Harwood Lakes segment again.  The rolling terrain and numerous lakes make an excellent venue for a hike.  I’d also very much like to hang out at the camping area and relax.

Ice Age Trail - Sauk Point and Merrimac Segments

GPS Route (GPX format)

     Weather forecasts on the island of Oahu lack drama of any manner save for those rare moments when a hurricane limps towards the island chain.  Most Summer days in the central plains of Oahu will top out at 85F and fall perhaps as low as 69F.  A major change in temperature is a 4 or 5 degree change.  Winter brings rain and high temps of 81F, lows of 67F.  Every days forecast was much like the day before.  The two years I spent in the central plains I don’t recall the seasons changing.   The waves on the North Shore would grow larger, gradually, until Waimea Bay was a sculpted bowl.  After a few months, gradually, the waves would shrink and the bay would return to a larger sloping beach.  All this happening so slowly, the change simply part of the background until you suddenly realized the rain had not really stopped in 3 days.  I recall one stretch in the Winter of 1989 where the central plains had 11 straight days of rain.  Our 6 day rotation of midnight shift fell right in the middle of that.  The clouds hung low between the two mountain ranges catching us right in the middle.  Gray and wet.  Work in the dark of night.  Sleep in the dark of curtained windows.

     The seasons in the upper Midwest are felt much more acutely.  Winter and Spring overlap for a few weeks in April with sleet, rain, and mud, but there is that one day when the snow cover disappears for good under soaking gray skies.  All that is left to remind us that Winter was once present are the dirty chunks of snow and sand on the side of the roads.  The rain stops by morning.  When the sun rises the woods have taken on a slight green tint in patches of new buds.

     Summer takes over from Spring with the first thunderstorm in May.  By then the flowers are bloomed, the leaves are fully green, and on one warm day black clouds roll in from the Northwest and lightening fills the skies. 

     Fall is the most special season in this part of the world.  The changes are not sudden, but they are not dramatic.  There are days where the hot Summer gives way to high temperatures 20 degrees colder.  Then a new front passes in and Summer is back perhaps for a few days.  The trees begin to turn, slowly, a few trees in the valleys first.  If the weather is peaceful and the windstorms are kept away, there is a marvelous show of color on the hills, bluffs, valleys.  Those who have only seen the Fall colors from their TV sets are missing one of life’s best moments.

     Still, the moment when Summer ends and Fall begins, that day, is tricky.  When did the first leaf turn?  Not today.  Today’s high temp was 82F.  Fall has a tell, though.  During years of cross country practice I’ve learned that tell.  Years of spending 3 hours of late afternoon and an hour walking home in twilight taught me when Fall really starts.  Summer ends and Fall begins with a smell.

     Maybe, on that day, a tree of two have a few leaves that are no longer their Summer red or green.  Maybe on red leaf is now ever so slightly orange.  On stressed tree shows several yellow leaves that were a weak shade of green during the hot months of July and August.  These are false signs and mean little.  August smells of sweet and green, a sticky, sometimes cloying scent.  Fall smells of broken and dry vegetation like when you collect pine cones and dry them over the fire.

     Wisconsin’s last day of Summer in 2012 was Saturday September 8^th.

     The official last day of Summer was still 13 days away when Ruth and loaded the bikes on the car and made our way to Parfrey’s Glen by Devil’s Lake State Park.  The goal was to hike two sections of the Ice Age Trail.  If you’ve read previous blogs you’ll know that I’ve tried this a few times before, the last time ending very early in a sprained ankle.

     The week before had been a warm week, with highs in the low 80s.  Not very warm by late August/early September standards, but far from cold.  I had been looking forward to this hike for a week and there were a couple times when I thought Ruth might back out of it.  Actually, right up until we left the driveway I was not certain the hike was going to happen.  I spent some considerable thought on how to express my extreme displeasure.  I figured the best way would simply to have just gone by myself.  Fortunately, that was wasted thought. 

     The morning broke as usual with me watching a dog do what dogs do first thing in the morning.  The day was crisp, around 55F but still did not have the bite that comes with a Fall morning.  As I walked the old shepherd to the end of the road I had to stop because there was the tell.  I smelled that smell I know so well.  Fall was making it’s way to Wisconsin.  If I could get Ruth out of the house this would be a great hike.

     We did get out of the house, but an hour late.  This would mean that if anything out of the ordinary occurred and delayed our hike further we’d finish the hike in the dark.  That’s not a terrible thing, but something I try to avoid, except on purpose.  Rain was forecast for the evening hours (after 7pm) so I really wanted us off the trail by 17:30.  We left the house at 9:50 so we would be pushing things.

     The drive down was mercifully quick as traffic was very light for a Saturday morning.  We arrived in Merrimac and had the bikes off the car at 11:39.  The plan was to bike 2.5 miles from Merrimac to Parfrey’s Glen.  We would then pick up the Ice Age Trail for the Sauk Point segment.  We would follow that across the highway where we would pick up a ski/hiking trail in the state park.  That would lead us to the Merrimac segment of the IAT.  Then a mile and a half of pavement would take us back to the car.   The bikes were again a critical component in allowing us to save a few miles of backtracking on pavement.  Instead of 4 miles of pavement we had only 1.4 miles.  The only backtracking would be done on 4 wheels.

     The ride up Baraboo St out of Merrimac is straight as an arrow, but has three long hills.  I tried to remember good shifting strategy and found that my hip and leg were doing well on the bike.  Far better than the previous ride in Chippewa County (man, do I want to get back there!)  We negotiated the hills well and on a couple of downhill parts sought to coast.  A steady West wind had other ideas.  Sadly, there was little coasting on the ride to Parfrey’s Glen. 

     We made the parking lot in about 20 minutes, maybe 18.  Uncharacteristically, I did not time the ride.  The parking lot was full already, with families taking advantage of cool sunny day.  There were only a few clouds in the sky and by Noon the temp was 66F.

Trailhead at Parfreys Glen

     By 12:12 we had the packs on and were on the trail, heading East.  This first part of the trail sports a long steady climb.  The climb is never steep, but is over a mile long.  That can take a toll of those who do not care for uphill segments (Ruth!).    On the voice recorder I made a statement that although long I did not find the climb all that challenging.  Ruth made a little face at the comment.  We still did average 1.5mph which is pretty average for us on a climb.

     We passed Solum Ln at 13:22.  We didn’t bother checking out the parking lot and kept hiking.  A couple minutes later we popped out of the woods.  The trail skirted a hummocked prairie.  Unceremoniously, Ruth dropped her pack and we took a 10 minute break.  A perfect spot for a breather.  The prairie was in a late Summer state with numerous aster and goldenrod; several other wildflowers I did not know.  The prairie was a pond of yellow, green, and brown.  Looking closely red and bloom made smaller appearances.  Sumac and smaller shrub trees hung back from the trail just over our heads.  A telephone pole older than my first dirty diaper stood sentry next to a  trio of cedar, reminding us that this area has to put up with us as more than just visitors.

Sauk Point prairie

     That trio of cedar would be our welcome back into the woods.  This next section of the trail proved to be rather rugged.  Travelling slightly downhill we began to encounter a rockier trail.  Finally, the trail begins winding downhill for certain.  At this point the trail winds around small boulders of quartzite, but the trail itself is a jumble of sharp and angled rocks.  Footing was quite treacherous during this section, but the woods were very pretty with large and small rocks scattered among ferns and other greenery.  After crossing a creek we stopped quickly to say Hi to the horses and then we found ourselves on Cty DL and the end of the Sauk Point segment.  We had covered 4.2miles just less than two hours.  14:04.

     The IAT crosses the highway and abruptly head uphill.  There is a trail to the left immediately after the highway.  That is the not the trail we wanted, but we, ah, just wanted to check out the parking lot.  Yeah, see, just check it out.   The ski/hiking trail is about 200m up the hill.  The going was pretty smooth with wide trails groomed for skiing.  We too the Uplands ski trail for about a mile.  The trail went from smooth to rocky, almost as rugged as the section just before Cty DL.  We took a short break on a bench at the intersection of the IAT and the Uplands trail.  Instead of putting a rock on the cairn by the trail we thought we’d be clever and balanced a small rock on the top of the sign post. 

     At 14:28 we started back on the IAT and a couple of miles on the Devil’s Lake segment.  The trail descends immediately and is again a rugged trail splattered with quartzite.  We were to learn at a sign later that these are called talus slopes.  Devil’s Lake is known for these formations of boulders and sharps rocks.  I’ve hiked in the state park on the East Bluff trail in November.  When those rocks are wet and especially when those rocks are icy they are very dangerous.   The Merrimac segment begins where the IAT crosses South Lake Rd, at the bottom of the slope.  By 15:05 we had crossed the road and were at Roznos Meadow.  Roznos Meadow is at the point where the glacier ended and began it’s melt into Devil’s Lake.  The ice wall at this point was over 1500ft high.  A moraine lies at the West end of the meadow and then Devil’s Lake.  Standing in the middle of the meadow, with South Bluff on the left, the south face of East Bluff on the right and meadow between me and the lake I was struck with the thought this Devil’s Lake might be considered Wisconsin’s Yosemite.   Yosemite is larger and mightier to be sure (I’m writing this while wearing a Yosemite t-shirt!), but the similarities between this valley and Yosemite, visually are not a hard stretch.

     The meadow was fantastic.  The grasses, at times, were higher than our heads.  Some clouds had begun to thicken, but the sun still held sway over the wildlife in the meadow.  About 15 minutes we lost the trail for a bit.  A wide area of the trail had been mown for some reason.  A rectangular area about 50ft wide and a few hundred feet long had been cut down to nubbins.  Along the trail in the meadow there had been yellow blazes painted the occasional tree and even one time on a fallen log.  Once or twice there was yellow trail tape in the tree.  We came out to the mown area with yellow trail tape on a scrub tree and then… no trail.  The trail was not visible, so I started by walking to the upper right corner and was going to walk along the length of the mown area until we found the trail.  The trail was in the upper right corner.  I called over Ruth.  We found some red trail tape on the tree that had one spot of yellow paint on it.  The tape had been painted yellow and tied to the back side of a bush.  The paint had almost completely worn off and the green of the bush obscured the tape besides.  From that point to the parking lot the trail was well marked.

Roznos Meadow

     We made the parking lot on Cty DL by 15:35.  We had been making good time, but did not feel we were hurrying.  We had already planned that this parking lot was going to be our long break of the day.  While waiting to leave that morning I came up with most brilliant plan to stash a cooler with sandwiches and pop in bushes by the parking lot.  We did just that on our way to Merrimac.  The parking lot is right at the turn we would take to go to Merrimac.  There were bushes right by the lot that perfectly hid the cooler from less honest eyes.  That cold pop was very welcome.  We took off shoes, socks and shirts.  Well, I took off my shirt.  I tried to convince Ruth that despite the four cars in the lot and the well-travelled county highway, there would be no problem.  She wasn’t buying it and my hopes of an easy thrill were dashed.   We munched our sandwiches, dried out, stretched out, and by 16:00 were on our way through the Riverland Conservancy land.

     The IAT through the RC is through marsh land, but at this time of the year and especially this drought year was dry and easily travelled.  The sights of the bluffs and Roznos Meadow were still visible as the trail wound through the marsh near the roads.  The Sauk County chapter of the Ice Age Alliance is to be commended for their excellent work on the boardwalk that was used in a few places of the marsh.  Ruth had to stop and see how it was built.  Very nice job!

Boardwalk through marsh

     We could not get close to the cranes in a small pond behind some trees, but we were still able to see them and hear them complain about our intrusion.  At one point the trail climbs a small hill and turns North.  The cloud formation was telling us that while we would not be chasing daylight, a storm would be chasing us.  Not a nice storm either.   Since the early morning I’d noted Fall’s tell a few times on the trail.  A different smell that was sharper than Summer, mustier.  The clouds were Summer’s statement that although today was it’s last day it was going to go out in dramatic fashion.

     The trail after crossing Parfrey’s Glen Creek is generally flat dipping in and out of woods while also skirting fields and pastures.   The local trail chapter must be planning some work as the trail on the East side of Marsh Rd was dotted with small utility flags bearing trail maintenance instructions.   

Skirting a field

     We hit Marsh Rd for the last time at 17:35.  We had 1.4 miles of pavement into Merrimac to the car.  The sky to the West and South was still sunny, but the Northern sky was black.  We were going to get wet.  Summer was going to have it’s last song and at our expense.  We dropped the packs in the car and made our way to the public bathrooms by the ferry by 18:04.  We males have a profound advantage over females in the woods.  There are activities that simply require us to find a good tree that simply does not work for the women-folk.  The bathroom at the ferry was a welcome sight for Ruth.  We hopped in the car and picked up the bikes.  Then we made our way back to the parking lot to retrieve the cooler.  Here we decided to change clothes in the car as well.  The sky above us was very dark and lightening was bouncing around to the North.  The first few drops hit as I put the cooler in the car and began changing socks and shoes.  I had just tied the last shoe and had pulled my foot into the car when the deluge began.  We made it by a half second.

12.11 miles (plus 2.59 miles bike)   5h 52min.   A very good long hike.

Ice Age Trail - Turtle Rock Segment

Ice Age Trail Alliance Link

Download GPS Route (gpx format)

     The Turtle Rock segment of the Ice Age Trail is found about 15 miles North of Merrill, WI and makes use of both County and private land.  Still within Northern Wisconsin this segment is part of the Ice Age Trail that is mostly trail with only a few road segments.

     Merrill sits on the Wisconsin River and is surrounded by the absolute beauty of Northern Wisconsin.  I will take the risk of alienating a whole part of Wisconsin but, for me, Northern Wisconsin starts at Hwy 29.  Merrill is a couple dozen miles North of HWY 29.  Travelling North, I-39/US 51 passed by Lake Du Bay and Eau Pleine Flowage.  The highway continues North past Mosinee, but just after Mosinee a large ridge is crested and the view to the North is of a series of tree covered ridges dominated by Rib Mountain.  HWY 29 is only a few miles away and the Wausau area begins the Eastern part of Northern Wisconsin, just as Chippewa Falls begins the Western part.  My opinion, but if you ever do take that drive you’ll see well how my opinion is formed.

     Merrill is a historic small town of around 10,000 souls.  Much in keeping with a River town there are few streets in Merrill that are actually straight for more than a few blocks.  The new round-about is confusing and ill-used, making driving a pull behind camper a real treat. 

     The history of Merrill is dominated by the logging industry that once owned every square acre of Northern Wisconsin.  My first wife’s grandfather grew up in Merrill and, as a teenager,  worked in the lumber camps in the early 1900’s.  He also boasted the first personal automobile in Merrill with his family making a living as one of the few blacksmiths in town.  When I’m in Merrill I’m ever aware of the history and people, Melvin’s stories come alive for me.

     In 2000 I was part of the GRABAAWR (Great Annual Bicycle Adventure Along the Wisconsin River).  Our stop after Day 2 was in Merrill.  The first day went from Eagle River to Minoqua.  That first day started with thunderstorms and ended trying to sleep in the hallway of a high school with 1100 other wet people, the humidity of wet clothing, and the sound of the electric hand dryers working overtime in the bathrooms.  Day 2 started out from Minoqua with absolutely fantastic weather; temps in low 70’s, mostly sunshine, a light Westerly breeze.  The ride was along the river and sported nearly constant views of the lakes, streams and rivers along the way to Merrill.  My trip partner and I stopped at GrandFather Dam, one of the many dams along the Wisconsin River.  In Merrill I had great pizza, got my bike fixed at the bike shop (who worked overtime when 1100 bikers rode into town).  After two days of riding 30% of us had some kind of issue.  I once again attempted to sleep in high school hallways.  Ah, yes, great memories.

     Merrill was also the location of the sectional cross country meet in 1986 that sent my team to the state competition.  Yeah, I like Merrill.

     Two years in a row my wife and I have come up to Council Grounds State Park in Merrill to camp while we go the Big Bull Falls Blues Festival.  Yes, one of the highlights of the festival is having one of the bands lead vocalists try to say that 10 times fast.  The music is great, the food is awful, the scenery is spectacular.

     This year we went up a couple days early with the camper.  One of the main features of the camping trip was to tick off another segment of the Ice Age Trail… the Turtle Rock segment.

     As is typical when hiking with my wife, the start time is greatly delayed.  Most avid hikers understand that and early start is a good start.  There are several reasons:

-          Earlier in the day is cooler

-          Earlier in the day has more bird song

-          If you get lost you have more daylight with which to ponder your fate (or find a nearby road, or get un-lost)

-          Earlier in the day is just plain the way it’s done, alright?!?

     So, at 12:47 we walked across Cty Hwy E parking area to the trail head.

Trail Head on Cty E - sharing a snowmobile trail

     The first mile is already a treat.  The sky is nearly cloudless and the temperatures are in the upper 70’s.  Considering the 90 and 100 degree temps Wisconsin has dealt with this Summer,  temps in upper 70’s are nearly Arctic.  The trail in this first mile moves from foot trail to snowmobile trail, to foot trail, to dirt access road, back to foot trail.  The first mile travels through stands of poplar and hemlock, then through some older growth and a bog before beginning a slow descent towards the river.

Trail - the first mile

The Bog

    

The trail, a footpath now, winds along the side of  a steep hill, hanging just above a small creek.  At 13:24 we were at the spot where the creek, and trail, meet the Wisconsin River.  A few minutes later Ruth simply sat down at the side of the trail and without fanfare we took our first break.  The trail was literally three feet from the river’s edge.  She could not have picked a better spot for a break.  Much of the trail as it approached Grandfather Dam tightly hugged the river.  There were several obvious fishing spots along the trail.  This is definitely a part of the trail that might be nearly impassable in the Spring.  The River need only rise less than a foot to completely flood the trail in most spots. 



Trail along creek leading to Wisconsin River



Break on the River



     At 13:47 we hit Grandfather Dam.  This is a small dam, like many along the river, and there is not much to see on this side.  There are some rocks to climb along and a little down the way there were a couple of families playing out in the water or on the big rocks out in the water.  Ruth seemed more motivated to push on, so after about 45 seconds of standing the dam wall, we were off.

     The falls is not for from the dam.  We could hear it as we passed.  I asked twice if “we” wanted to head off the trail out on the rocks and see if we could see the falls.  “That’s OK.  Let’s keep going.”  No falls this trip.

     The trail to dam was easy, even when it was a foot path.  No hills to speak of, only a gradual downhill.  Smooth and even with a very easy stream crossing at the bog.  That all changes after the dam.

 

     The landscape by the river after the dam is a series of boulders, smaller rocks and arms of high land.  The trail winds up short but steep fingers of land, then falls quickly into valleys that would be a swamp in wet weather.  When the trail is not on land, it is going through, around, and over boulders.  The ground between the boulders is only inches thick.  Water trickles in the hollows between rock and dirt.  This is a very rugged and relatively challenging section of the trail.  Be sure your boots are laced up good and your ankles are ready.



Near Grandfather Falls

Rocky trail along Wisconsin River

     After a half hour and one false climb, the trail makes a real climb up out of the river valley, climbing 165 feet very quickly with only two switchbacks.  Soon, though, the climb is over and lands at series of logging roads and foot paths.  The guide recommends bringing map and compass and at least the map is very useful in this part.  There are several trails and logging roads that lead off in different directions.  Pay particular attention to the yellow blazes.  There are a few spots where it is easy to veer off the trail.



     We took a 20 minute break in a small clearing along a logging road at 14:55.  This was a good chance to get some food, get the packs off, and dry myself off.  I just have to say that I applaud the advent of quick dry materials.

     We listened closely about us for birds and also tried to identify threes.  Sadly, there was very little bird song and our tree identification suffers still.  We did get a chance during our long break to watch some butterflies play, but were not able to capture a good picture.  At the campground, though, we were treated to bald eagles flying directly above and dipping down to the river to catch fish.



     After about 15 minutes more of walking on a series of foot path and other paths, the trail joins a well-used dirt access road.  This rest of the trail section, about a mile, continues on this easy path until it reaches Burma Rd.  Just as we entered this last section we met our first person of the hike (well, we saw, but did not meet the people on the river.  They never saw us, being warned not to feed the wildlife.)  He was a section hiker like us.  He has a goal of hiking all the trail sections of the Ice Age, but has no intention of hiking the connector routes unless they are useful.  Interestingly, he uses his bike as a shuttle so that he would avoid backtracking and thus cover more trail.  I’d done the same at the Chippewa Moraine a week earlier.



The Way Out



Trail Head on Burma Rd.



     We hit the end of the trail and Burma Rd at 15:49.  We now had two miles of pavement to cover back to the car.  The first mile, Burma Rd, was gravel, but Cty E is paved heading East from the intersection of Burma Rd (heading West it too is gravel).  Finishing a hike on pavement seems to be a ritual.  I'd really like to know how many hikers experience this.  I've done it to make it back to parking areas, to catch the bus, and to make it home.

     By 16:07 we’d hit Cty E and pavement.  At 16:32 we arrived at the car.

     The total trip or 7.13 miles took 3h 50m.  Another great Northern Wisconsin adventure was complete.