December 2011 and I find myself back in Tokyo. I made it out here last year, a work trip, and this year, work again. Someday I hope to come out here and not have to work at all.
If you’ve read any of my other postings you’ll understand that I am not a fan of crowds. What I consider a crowd, in Tokyo, is considered a small gathering of people. The train station in Tachikawa, a westerly suburb of Tokyo, services over 170,000 people a day. The closer the station is to Tokyo, the larger that number grows. On a Sunday morning at 07:12 the Tachikawa station has over 1500 people waiting for trains and at least that number getting off the trains.
That’s where I was on Sunday December 4th, 2011; at Tachikawa station waiting for the train to Takao. The 07:12 arrived at 07:12 and left at 07:14. Arriving at Takao station about 15 minutes later, you jump off the train and find your way to Keio line and the train to Takao-sanguchi. Six minutes later the train shows up, you board, and 1 minute later off you go. 3 minutes later the train arrives. I love the Tokyo train system. The trip costs about $2.00, even with the exchange rate of the miserable US dollar. I really love the Tokyo train system.
The original plan was to hike up to the summit of Takao-san on trail #6 and then back down on one of the other trails, #1 or #4, maybe. The website (http://www.takaotozan.co.jp/takaotozan_eng1/index.htm) states that the ascent is 90 minutes and the descent about 70 minutes. I was looking for a 5 to 6 hour hike. This was a little short, but my research to that point made other peaks a bit out of reach, or so I thought.
Another plan was to take the train to Fujiino station, hike up to Jimba-san, and then hike back down to Sagami-ko station. That trip, as described on another website (http://www.tokyoactive.com/hikemaplistD.html) would take 6 to 7 hours. The distances described seem to make this a reasonable time estimate.
I was in a quandary. The sun goes down at 16:30. I can get on the trail at Jinba-san by around 8:00. I’m not going to wake up at 05:00 to make a very early train. Just not worth it to me. Maybe?
After talking with a couple locals, non-hikers, who had been to Takao-san, they assured me that Takao-san would be challenging enough to take 4 or 5 hours. Okay, Takao-san it is.
Thursday, Friday, and Saturday were miserable, cold, and rainy. 7C and raining, drizzling, steady rain, then high wind. No way was I going to hike on Saturday. Well, I would have, but Sunday promised to be a spectacular day. I did go walking around Tachikawa on Saturday morning and afternoon, but got absolutely soaked. After the 5.3 earthquake woke me up I needed something to do other than sit in the hotel. So, I walked in the rain. Prayed at a Buddhist temple, and got very very wet and cold.
I also decided, after reviewing some more information that I was going to at least attempt to go beyond Takao-san and reach the next summit, Kobotoke-Shiroyama. A trail from that summit lead down to Sagami-ko and the whole thing should take about 4 hours. Good. That’s the new plan.
Sunday, dawn, 06:15. I was up already and packing gear that I’d laid out the night before. The day was forecast to be very sunny, 0% chance of rain, and highs around 15C. Figured that at 700m, the temp would probably be closer to 10C, so pack a little warmer. I also have to pack light. I do very well in the cooler temps and not so well in the very hot (30C and above). I just run hot I guess. I made sure to pack enough food and water for 7 hours on the trail.
Right outside Takao-sanguchi station is a large map of Takao-san and the trails. The website gives directions from the station to the trails. I found the directions next to useless.
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| Takao-san map outside Takao-sanguchi |
Tip #1 – stand facing the map. Turn to your right and walk up the road. The first trail is the Inariyama trail. It is on the left side of the paved road you will be walking on. There is a wooden post right at the trail head with the name of the trail on it. Oh, the name is written only in Japanese. Did I mention that I speak, read, and write absolutely no Japanese? Yeah, tip #2 – memorize the first two Japanese characters for the important points along the way. Half of the sign-posts on the trails are in Japanese only. Unless you are one of those very rare breed who can find their way through a corn maze on cloudy night with nothing but a toothpick and candy bar, you will get lost on the Japanese mountain trails without being able to spot the name of your destination on the sign posts. Well, you won’t get lost, but you’ll have to ask for help. Your chances are about 40% of getting someone that speaks enough English to communicate. Then, you need to be able to communicate where you need to go to them. My oh my, can that be interesting. I continually have the Japanese apologize for not being able to speak English. Bless them. I’m in Japan and I don’t speak Japanese. What should I expect?
Trail #6 is just another 200m past the Inariyama trail and is likewise on the left side of the road. Good news! In amongst all the Japanese on the sign post is a big ol’ “6”. I marked the trail head at 08:00 right t on the button. I like being on the trail no later than 08:00, especially in the winter hours. Perfect.
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| Trailhead for Trail #6 - Translates to "Nature Inspection Road #6" |
As soon as you hit the trail you are in the woods and climbing. Actually, the road climbs slightly from the train station. Also once on the trail and in the woods, the temp drops. I didn’t have a measurement, but I would guess no warmer than 5C. I was wearing my orange knit cap, a light poly-nylon running long-sleeve and a poly-spandex short sleeve under that. Lightweight hiking pants, socks, boots round out the worn clothing. The gloves were in the pack and I nearly brought them out. After about 20 minutes on the trail the fingers were ok. After 40 minutes on the trail, the hat came off, then went back on. Then came off again. You get the idea. Cold, warm, cold, warm. Like I said, I run hot.
I especially run hot when climbing. The trail climbs 150m in 3.3km. There was really only one point where the trail was remotely challenging for a climb. About maybe 1200m from the summit there is about 400m worth of stairs (wooden ties sunk into the dirt and rock of the trail). I hate stairs. I think most hikers do. But, without these stairs the trail would long have washed into the valley below. This was a pretty steep climb that lasted about 5 or 6 minutes. Not terrible, but some serious work for that short period. The trail runners practically flew up the grade. I used to be that nimble once! Dang ‘em.
Along the way, before reaching the Stairs, you’ll pass by the Biwa waterfall and shrine. Be sure to take the short side trail and spend 30seconds looking that shrine and waterfall. Before the stairs, the trail also turns and goes up a rocky stream bed. The trail to that point has been a mix of slipper rock and mud after three days of solid rain. The stream bed is all rock, very slippery. The water pools are only a few inches deep, but are just enough to catch a foot and twist. I tweaked my right calf at one point on that stretch. I felt it go and thought “Holy crap. That’s then end of my day.” Kept walking though, and kept climbing. By the time I’d reached the second peak… no problem.
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| Biwa shrine and waterfall |
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| Trail climbs a stream bed |
At the top of the stairs is a major trail junction for the Takao trails. There are also benches. The timing was right and I was pooped from the stairs, the stairs, and the stairs. This was a good opportunity for a five minute break. Tip #3 – unless you are totally spent, don’t stop here. You are a short easy climb of three minutes from the summit. Wait for it.
There are four ways to go at the junction: from whence you came, to the left, to the right, and straight up. Straight up is the way to summit. To the left circumvents the summit and heads to the next peak on the trail. The path to the right goes back down on Trail #5. Go straight up. This is a grooved concrete path, the first pavement since the road from the station. The climb is easy and within minutes you are at the summit. On this clear sunny day like this day, Fuji-san is in-your-face. Simply outstanding.
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| Hi There! |
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| Fuji-san |
The summit is packed with people. Most folks take the cable cars up to the summit and then hike back down. There are souvenir shops and noodle shops, tables, benches, vistas all over the summit. Pretty much what I expected to see from what I had heard. People.
Again, if you’ve read my posts, I look for solitude on my hikes. In the mountains near Tokyo, you are not going to get that. I was very lucky last year and went to a lesser travelled peak on a lousy weather day. Today was one of the most popular peaks on a gorgeous day after a week of rainy weather. At no point along the entire trail for the whole day was I alone. The furthest distance between me and another hiker was later in the day and was about 30m. Most of the time I was at least within 2 or 3m of somebody. I tried to keep my distance so as not to push or disturb anyone. Several times I found myself nearly in lock-step with another hiker or two. We never said anything to each other, each keeping our own peace, but each other’s pace.
By 09:08 I was at the summit. That 90minutes took only an hour. I now went to plan C, or was it D.
Jimba-san was my new goal. The sign post said Jinba-san was 5 hours and 18.5km away. I’m not a strong climber, but I’m a steady climber. Two more summits before Jinba-san, 4km per hour if I’m feeling good (and I was). Jinba-san was the new goal. The hard part would be the trip down to the bus stop and Jinbakogenshita village. There is also a bus stop at the Wada village, which would have been shorter, but I wasn’t certain about the trail, or the bus stop. But down to Jinbakogenshita village was another 2.5km according to one knowledgeable hiker I talked to. Keep that number in your head for later.
I stopped and ate one my ongiri. Rice shaped in a triangle, stuffed with something, sometimes fish, sometimes bean, sometimes something I don’t know, wrapped in seaweed. I love these things. They are easy to digest, cheap to buy, and just hit the spot. Had one of those, some nuts, drank some water, took some pictures and hit the trail. 09:20 and I’m off to Kobotoke-Shiroyama and 670m.
Immediately from Takao-san there is a sharp descent, and yes, stairs. Slippery muddy stairs. The rest of the 40 minute hike to Kobotoke-Shiroyama rolls gently up along the ridge, alternating between cypress forest, and mountain prairie. The trail also sports a few sightings of Fuji-san, but even more spectacular is the view of the other side of the ridge. Peaks and trees spread all the way to the horizon.
All along the entire ridge between Takao-san Jimba-san you can hear the sounds of life below. The Chuo Expressway and trains are all a constant hum while on the ridge. Occasionally, you can spot them below.
At 10:00 on the dot I made the summit to Kobotoke-Shiroyama at 670m. I took the pack off, stretched, nibbled on some nuts and wasabi crackers, and drank some more tea I brought with. Excellent views of Fuji-san. At 10:15 I was back on the trail.
Very shortly after the summit a long descent begins. Yes, there are stairs, but not nearly as many. Mostly there are just footholds in the mud. The trail drops steeply and is very slippery. I felt sorry for the people travelling up. I shouldn’t have. Twenty minutes later there is a 15 minute climb from Hell. Yes, stairs. That whole distance we descended, plus another 50m up was necessary to climb to reach Kagenboru-san at 727m.
Along the way up there was a pack of 10 or 12 of us that got stuck going one-step-at-a-time up the long ascent. My calves just simply could not go that slow, so I found a spot to the side of the trail and scrambled as quickly as my stiff body would go past the whole crowd. At the front of the conga line was a lady who must have been in her 70’s or 80’s. She was with her retinue of what was likely her daughter and grand-daughter. She was climbing this one-step-at-a-time. Although moving very slowly she was going to make her way to the summit. Wow, that’s what I say. I felt embarrassed for having skipped in front of her. My only other two choices would have been strained calf muscles of stop and wait the 40 minutes for her to make the summit.
That climb from the saddle to the summit of Kagenboru-san is, by far, the toughest climb of that route. Going the other direction I would suppose the saddle to Kobotoke-Shiroyama would be the toughest. That was truly a challenge, but I’ve done much harder. Along the steep and winding switchbacks the view opens up several times to give views of the Tokyo basin below.
At the summit of Kagenboru-san is a basically a picnic area with soba shops and picnic tables… and incredible views of Fuji-san, the Sagami valley, and Tokyo basin. People hike up from below and bring in camp stoves. They cook their own noodles or buy them from the noodle shops right at the summit. I’ve never seen anything quite like it. At 11:15 we all found ourselves at 727m.
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| Kagenboru-san |
In the picture of the summit you’ll see a guy with a face mask under his chin. For those of you who are not familiar with Japan, this is not because the air is so polluted. He wears this, or should be wearing it, because HE’S polluted. He has a cold, the sniffles. In Japan, when you have a cold, you wear a face mask until goes away. Not the law, just what you do. What you’re expected to do. Not sure how much it matters. Just like every other human in the world, the people of Japan pick their nose (yes, I saw you do it! You tried to be sneaky, but I saw it!), rub their eyes, pick at the corners of their mouths.
I was really feeling dehydrated at this point and took stock of my water. I had enough for about three more hours. Just water was left. The sugary tea was gone. I went to the noodle shop and bought a bottle of Lemon C-C and a small bowl of miso soup. Told myself I wasn’t going to do that, but when in Rome…
The soup was the worst miso I’ve had and I like miso soup. I was glad I only go the small bowl. I drank the 100ml of Lemon Water in nearly a single swallow. Ate a Snicker bar, had another ongiri (I LOVE those things!). I brought three with. I was pretty pooped out and my legs needed the break. The Lemon stuff and soup worked their magic and a couple of good stretches had me ready to go.
11:45 – 5.7km to Jimba-san.
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| Jimba-san 5.7km |
The trail from Kagenboru-san to Jimba-san rolls up and down the ridge. There is no large descent, no large ascent. A little down, a little more up was the course of the trail. Along the way are views of the valleys on both sides of the ridge. Occasionally, Fuji-san peaks into view, but by now an early haze has come in and the distant peaks are visible, but lack detail. The trail is smooth, unpaved, wide, and fast as it rolls through the cypress forests. The wooded path reminded me of running along the forest paths at scout camp in Northern Wisconsin.
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| Valley to the Norhwest of the ridge |
I mentioned before that there were people that I’d fall in step with or they with me. We hiked as individuals, but keeping the same pace. I don’t understand why, I’m sure there is a good explanation, but the fashion with Japanese hikers to attach bells to their packs. Jingle, jingle, all the way. In the US we do that to let the bears know a tasty morsel is coming near, like an ice cream truck in a suburban neighborhood.
There are no man eating creatures in the Tokyo mountains. There was one guy I fell in with just after Kobotoke, on the descent out of Kobotoke. He was a jingler. Jingler-san I named him. His pace was nearly identical to my pace. We stopped at the same rest stops and without trying we were within meters of each other. He was faster on the descents, I was steadier on the climbs.
We hit the last rest stop before Jimba-san at 12:40 (738m). Ten minutes later, he started to go and walked right by me and slowed down. I happened to be looking up and caught him looking back at me. His eyes and set of his face said, “So, are you coming?” I stood up, he turned his head and off we went, without a word. About 10 minutes after that rest stop his pace slackened significantly. Whether he was tired or knew something I didn’t I couldn’t be sure. With a “musimesen and origato” I left Jingler-san to summit Jimba-san on his own. The last approach to Jimba-san looks daunting, but it’s really not very difficult. You can hear the people on the summit from 400m away. At 13:23 I was at the white horse and the summit of Jimba-san. I had been on the trail for 5h23m and 4h12m from Takao-san summit.
The summit is a large open meadow. There are three different noodle shop areas on the three different levels of the meadow. The views at Kagenboru-san were fantastic. The views at Jimba-san are without expression. Three old men were down on the side of the slope using a broom to get the last few apples off an apple tree. The slope was steep and the one with the broom would have to jump and swat. He’d land and slip and roll down the slope, knocking one or both of the “grabbers” off their feet. I had almost as much fun watching them as they were having themselves. On one of the side levels someone brought out a guitar and he and group of hikers started singing some Japanese folk song.
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| Jimba-san, one of the levels |
I sat down on a bench in the sun and listened. Decided the sun was not very warm and put the long sleeve running top back on (that came off at Takao-san). I listened for a while to a song I did not know, nibbled on my remaining food, and drank most of my remaining water.
Recall that a knowledgeable hiker related to me that Jinbakogenshita bus-stop was 2.5km from Jimba-san. If you were to go down the trail to Wada pass and then the road to Jinbakogenshita and stop after 2.5km you’d still be 1.9km up the side of the mountain. The sign said Jinbakogenshita 4.4km at the Jimba-san summit. There was yet over an hour to go. 14 ounces of water left. No problem.
At 13:48 the descent to Wada Pass begins. 1.1km of mud and roots. I discovered how many people arrive at Jimba-san so late in the day. There is a parking lot at Wada pass with enough room for maybe 15 cars. Somehow seems like cheating! Now there remained 3.3km of pavement; all downhill. I somehow seem to find a way to end my hikes with 2 to 3 miles of pavement. Good gravy.
The views along the mountain road were splendid. The road was narrow, wet, and steep. A lightly travelled road by Tokyo standards. There was perhaps a vehicle of two every 5 minutes. I passed by two different groups of hikers along the way. They were headed to make the bus just as I was. I made the bus, They would not be that fortunate. At 14:45 exactly I came into view of Jinbakogenshita. In the middle of the road was a uniformed man yelling into a bull horn in my direction. Although speaking in Japanese I got the idea… “the bus is leaving now.” I lamely jogged the last 300m, asked quickly.. “Takao station?” “Hai, Takao!”. On the bus and off the mountain…
I do not know if I ever will get back to Japan. I’ve been very fortunate the last few years to have been able to travel to a few places for my work. I’d never had made to these places on my own. I’d also thought that I’d be able to take trips like this every couple years, but the realities of where I find myself make that impractical if not impossible. Fortune smiled greatly on me by having me work where I do and doing what I do.
Japan is great land of history and culture. I’ve touched the surface and not even that. My passion for hiking and mountains has taken me away from museums and other such things where I would have picked up much more detail on the culture, but I’ve no regrets. While in Japan these last two trips I’ve done the work that I love and have been to the top of 6 minor peaks in a land that most will never set foot on. I consider myself extraordinarily blessed to have been here and set foot on the rocks and dirt of this country.
Thanks to Jingler-san for the company and I wish you many more pleasant hikes.
Approximately 26.2km in 6h45m. Trail notes below:
07:48 Arrive at Takao-sanguchi station
08:00 Traihead for Trail #6
45deg Sunny but damp
08:10 Biwa waterfall and shrine
08:45 Trail Jct
Trail goes up a stream bed
08:55 Short break
Trail Jct with trail #5. Climbed 400m of stairs. Difficult climb.
09:08 Back on the trail.
09:11 Takao-san Summit 599m
09:20 Towards Jimba-san
09:47 Great viewpoint
10:00 Kobotoke-Shiroyama Summit 670m
10:15 Off again
10:20 Very slippery and muddy descent
10:45 Climbing steep and sharp switchbacks
11:15 Summit Kagenboru-san 727m
11:45 Start for Jimba-san 3.5km away
12:07 Hiking rolling ridge
12:33 2.3km to Jimba-san
12:40 Rest stop at 738.9m 2.0km from Jimba-san
12:50 Off again
13:23 Jimba-san Summit 857m
13:48 Off again – 4.4km to bus top
14:03 Arrive at parking lot. All pavement for the next 3.3km
14:45 Made bus seconds before it was going to pull away
Glad to see you made it up and back in one piece. Good choice on heading to Jimba. It's a long day but not too difficult as far as mountains in Japan go.
ReplyDeleteGet used to the wooden steps. At least you didn't have any chains or ladders like on a lot of the peaks here.
You're also really lucky with the weather. Good choice on not heading up on Saturday (though you probably would've had the place to yourself)
Wes