Black River State Forest - Shale Rd

     I had three choices on this last afternoon of vacation.

A.      Take a nap and then catch up on a week of work email.

B.      Take a nap and then mow the lawn.

C.      Head to the Black River State Forest and take a hike.

     All too predictably, I went hiking.

 GPS Track File Download

     The weekend was unseasonably cool.  The temps topped out in the mid 60’s and a light drizzle would pass through every so often.  Although in July I’ll take excellent September weather any day for hiking.

     I took off around 15:30 and at 16:38 was out of the car and on the hike.  I picked a forest road path that would cover about 6 miles.  I knew that at least half of the route would be on pavement, but had not been on the other road, so did not know what to expect.  The route started at the southern intersection of N Settlement Rd and Shale Rd.  I would follow Shale Rd to the northern intersection with N Settlement Rd and then back down N Settlement Rd to the southern intersection.

     Starting out the temp was at 65F with a mostly cloudy sky.  Shale Rd proved to be pavement as well.  These paved forest roads are narrow asphalt and kept up well enough to be accessible by any vehicle.  Although narrower than a township road or highway they allow plenty of room for two vehicles.  I’m not a fan of pavement, but I need to put the miles on.  Besides, on such a day just being in the forest is enough to satisfy nearly any adventuring soul.

    The first mile of the road had a few paths dive off into the woods.  Most of those overgrown paths are either old logging entries or favorite hunting drive-ins.  One sandy wider road about a mile down the road headed west into the woods.  I noted that this might be a fun road to head down some day.  Shortly after passing that intersection three turkey took off down the side of the road before heading into the woods.  I could not get a good shot with the camera.

 

     Two weeks ago I’d been in the Black River Forest walking a snowmobile trail.  That hike was essentially through a swamp and was flat, flat, flat.  This hike started off flat, but after a mile begins a long stead climb to a ridge.  Once over the ridge the terrain undulates lightly over some smaller ridges.  At 17:07 the Wildcat hiking and ski trail crosses the road and that explains the terrain.  Wildcat Mound is one of the highest points in the Black River Forest and is surrounded by several other ridges and mounds.  On either side of this complex of high ridges are natural swamps and old cranberry marshes. 

     Also in contrast to the hike from two weeks ago, there were almost no mosquitoes and the flies were significantly reduces, though still quite evident and aggressive.

     I made the intersection of Kling Rd and Shale Rd at 17:21.  The pavement ends for Shale Rd here and Kling Rd is not paved for the entire length.  Kling Rd was one I’d been on two weeks before.  The start of that hiking portion was on Kling Rd about 5 miles to the west of where I stood now.  Shale Rd takes a left and heads straight and flat for N Settlement Rd.  As mentioned, this part of Shale is not paved, but is a wide sandy path.  The path is clearly well travelled.  I was able to take a good picture of a doe and fawn on this section.

     Logging is a constant activity in the forest.  On this short hike there were several places where the forest had not been touched for decades.  Other places where there was new fall and still more sections where the forest had been cut within the last five years.  I’m learning to appreciate the variety that these cut and growth areas provide the forest.

 

Doe and fawn along Shale Rd.

     At 17:41 I reached the north intersection of N Settlement and Shale.  A right turn to head south and down N Settlement Rd.  Passed by Younkers Rd at 18:00 and continued on N Settlement.  The road was mostly flat at this point but the elevation profile shows a drop from about 1047ft at the Shale/Kling intersection to 1015ft and the climbing to 1072ft at the N Settlement/Younkers intersection.  The drop is steady and slow and so is the climb.  After Younkers the climb becomes greater, ascending 120ft is just over a half mile.  Not quite mountain-ish, but it does make for interesting terrain.

View from high point on N Settlement

    I passed by the parking lot for the Wildcat Hiking and Ski trails.  On the opposite side of the road from the parking lot the Wildcat trails join with the Smrekar trails.  The combination of these two trail systems provides 15 or 16 miles of hiking that includes some good climbs and a variety of forest and meadows.  After the parking lot the road really begins the climb.

     The intersection of N Settlement and Smrekar Rd came along at 18:28.  The parking lot for the Smrekar trails is just down the paved Smrekar Rd.  Six minutes later I was back at the car, having covered 6.15 miles in just less than two hours.

     Today I was simply trying to put on some miles and get out of the house.  The day was spectacular for hiking and I also came away with some ideas for future hikes in the forest.  

Porcupine Mountains - Michigan U.P.

GPS Track File Download

     In my blog entries I have waxed philosophical about the Pacific Northwest and I have gushed about the emotions brought forth by Northern Wisconsin, but there is yet another place from which I have some of the best memories of my life – Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. 

     The U.P. is a large area with several state, county, and national forests.  Wilderness areas cover large tracts of land.  Lake Superior and Lake Michigan provide shoreline dramatic enough to equal any in the world.  My memories come from a part of the U.P. known as the Ottawa National Forest.

     In 2002, 2003, and 2004 I was part of the support crew for an adventure racing team that participated in the Trekineer.  The Trekineer was a 36 hour adventure race that took place in the Ottawa National Forest around the Black River, Presque Isle River, and the Superior shoreline near those two world class rivers.  The racers would trek, bike, paddle, crawl, and slog their way through the forest, rivers, streams, and lakes of some of the deepest country east of the Mississippi.

     In 2002, with my family, I took in the falls along the Black River.  That year found all the support crew sitting on a logging road bridge over the Presque Isle River on a 70 and sunny afternoon.  In 2003 I hiked a 7 mile section of the North Country trail between the Black River and Presque Isle River.  2004 would be the best of those three years.  Before the race I biked 33 miles of logging roads on one day and then hiked 22 miles in the Porcupine Mountain State Park the next.  Two days later I helped the race director take down part of the course.  That little three hour jaunt with Leo would prove to be one of the more memorable adventures of my life.  Leo took me to an emerald canyon, wading into a swampy lake, and getting into parts of the forest few people ever find.

     Ruth had never been to the U.P. and we decided we’d spend a few days up there this Summer.  We took along our camper and made Gogebic State Park our headquarters.  

Gogebic State Park - site #22

 

Our backyard!

     This entry will not just be about a single hike we did, but cover a little the four little adventures we undertook in the five days we stayed. 

     I was very anxious about this trip.  I had some great memories and I wanted to share some of those same places and moment with Ruth.  I had a daily itinerary set out to make sure we could get to these activities.  But, the failure of either weather or body was strong in my mind.  The forecast looked very promising, with only one day of rain.  Would my hip and leg be able to manage the exertions?  I was indeed worried.

Paddling the Sylvania Wilderness

     I looked around for some good paddling.  We were not going to attempt Lake Superior, although at Little Girls Point we could have a couple of days.  We camp on Lake Gogebic, so that was an option, but I was looking for something more remote.

     I had never heard of the Sylvania Wilderness Area and that has been so much my loss.  Over 18,000 acres of lakes, swamps, and hills than can only be accessed by kayak/canoe and foot.  There is only one person allowed to use a motor boat on the lakes of Sylvania.  Don’t know why, but it is by a court order.  A couple dozen campgrounds are sprinkled along the lake shores.  Sylvania is surrounded by the rest of the Ottawa National Forest.

     http://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/ottawa/recarea/?recid=12331

     There are a few places to rent from, but the closest and most prominent is Sylvania Outfitters.  There are a couple miles down the road from the wilderness area entrance station.  I’m not endorsing them, but they did have good information on a place to get our trailer tire fixed, and they are pretty the game in town from my research.  We had our own boats.  We were there for maps and information.

     The entrance fee is $5/day.  I think the annual pass is $30. 

     At the outfitters pick up a waterproof map of the wilderness area.  This is a very detailed and excellent map.  Well worth the $5. 

     There are exactly two boat launches in the Sylvania, one on Clark Lake and the other on Crooked Lake.  The other lakes are reached by portages, some short and some look very long.

     The lake is populated by loons, eagles, beavers, and plenty of fish.  Ruth kept looking for them and all I saw were minnows in the shallows.  One father and son we paddled by said they hit their limit of 50 each.  The fish are out there.

     We put in at Crooked Lake.  The north end of the lake is private property and the houses are visible from the boat launch.  We were going to put in at Clark Lake but the wind was less than friendly.  The ranger and the station said they’d had reports of white caps on Clark Lake, the biggest lake in the Sylvania.  Crooked Lake is much smaller and narrower and it turned out to be perfect for our paddling temperament. 

     Despite the wind the day was sunny and warm, but not hot.  This was a spectacular day to be out on the water.  We did not plan to make any portages (and did not), but having been there I’d suggest portaging from Crooked Lake to another smaller lake or two.  Being a “launch” lake there were many boats and lots of people.  This Sunday had a couple groups of younger folks (15 to 22 yrs old) and they were very loud, easily audible from a mile across the lake.  We found a quieter part of the lake and just paddled around.  We stopped for lunch on a rock by the High Lake portage.

Boats at portage take-out

     We only spent a couple hours on the water and then drove down to check out the Clark Lake campground.  The campground has no water or electricity, but has some nice sites.

    

Hiking the Porkies

     The Porcupine Mountain Wilderness State Park is the largest state park in Michigan, Wisconsin, Illinois, Indiana, and just about any state I know of.  There are larger national parks to be sure, but covering 60,000 acres the Porcupines are large.  The park is surrounded on three sides by the Ottawa National Forest and Lake Superior on the fourth.

http://www.michigandnr.com/parksandtrails/Details.aspx?id=426&type=SPRK

     Although there are several trails and some campgrounds in the Porkies, they are most noted for Lake Superior, Lake of the Clouds, and the Escarpment above Lake of the Clouds.  On a sunny day there are few sites as pretty as those from the Escarpment.

     In 2004 I hiked a 22 mile route in the Porkies.  I  took in one end of the Escarpment at the end of the hike as the sun was going down.  The lake shimmered gold from the setting sun.  That was a good hike, back when I could put on some miles.

     Our hike this year would be a 13.1 mile trip starting at the Escarpment and then immediately dropping down to the lake outlet to the Carp River on the Mirror Lake trail.  Following the Mirror Lake trail we’d gradually climb to the Government Peak trail.  We’d follow that trail to Government Peak and then along the ridges to the Lost Lake trail.  We’d follow that to the north as it descends gradually to the inlet to Lake of the Clouds.  Then we’d join the Escarpment trail that winds along the edge of the cliffs high above Lake of the Clouds.

     Planning the hike we were looking at about 6 or 7 hours of hiking.  We knew we’d be a little beat up, what with her knees and my left leg.  We had no idea what was in store for us.

     We got our start at …. oh, yeah, the park is in the Eastern Time Zone.  We got our start at 12:46PM EST.  We spent a little time on the rocks of the Escarpment with the other tourists, but not much.  Ruth was really itching to get going.  I was not too worried about time.  She must have known something I did not.  The Mirror Lake trail drops very quickly down to the swampy outlet.  The trail is very very well travelled.  Many people walk down to the bridge, cross it, then turn back round to climb back up to the parking lot (about a 1 mile round trip).  We hit that at 13:12.  The Bridge Over the River Carp.

Escaprment - early afternoon

     The trail heads straight through some low lands and then begins a more than moderate climb up to campground.  At 13:22 we made the first less steep climb to a lower ridge.  At several spots the trail crosses through muddy run off.       We crossed the second creek at 13:30 and began the longer steeper climb to the higher ridge that houses Government Peak.

     The trail winds between pine trees as it sticks close to ever deepening canyon with a small creek.  I kept stopping to look into the canyon, but Ruth kept prodding us along.  The creek had a few small waterfalls and the temperature difference was markedly lower next to the canyon.  As the trail winds between the trees there is very little ground cover.  The trail blends in nicely with the rest of the forest floor as it hops over tree roots and dodges around mud puddles.  The trail is marked on the trees either with a painted blue spot or a metal blue diamond.  In this section it is advisable to navigate by the trail markers.  The tendency is to veer to the east which will only take further and further from the trail.

Follow the blue!!

     We finished the climb about 14:00 and the trail leveled out just a bit.  Less roots and less mud and less climb.  We stopped for a break on fallen log in a clearing to have a sandwich and whatever else. 

     We had now become aware that the only people we’d seen had been coming towards us.  We had passed no one and no one had passed us in the same direction.  Some of the folks were very likely coming from Government Peak or more likely Mirror Lake.  One group may have come from the Escarpment but they had done it in the reverse direction that we had.  Ruth had asked about the elevation profile of each direction.  Certainly the way we were going had the harder climb up to Government Peak, but up to the Escarpment it looked about the same.  We’d find out otherwise.

     There were not many people once we pass the Carp River.  A family of four, two couples, and a lone hiker to this point.

     We hit the intersection of Govt Peak and Mirror Lake trails at 14:44.  The sign read 2.5 miles to Govt Peak.

     A half hour later we had crossed a creek (and several small muddy run offs) and the climbed up to the campground.  This was a very deceptively steep climb.  On the map it is a single 50m contour line.  What it doesn’t show is that that entire 50m came in a near vertical ascent (well not quite).

Along the Govt Peak trail

Just another stream crossing

    At 15:40 we were at the campground just below Govt Peak and we still had some climbing to do.  The nature of the ridge was 2 levels up and 1 level down.  This roly-poly was not quite as brutal as climbing snow packs around the trees in the mountains, but that at each low spot there was a muddy crossing of a stream and on each ascent and descent there were roots to negotiate, this was quickly becoming a challenging hike.

     We took a break on Govt Peak at 15:53.  The bugs, to this point had not been too bad.  A few flies were my constant companion and a regular reapplication of deet was keeping the skeeters at bay.

     I was expecting a nice overlook and grand view of Superior and Lake of the Clouds from Govt Peak.  There isn’t.  There is a cleared out area for the campground near the crumbling foundation of an old shelter building.  The map shows an overlook but we did not see where that would have been.

     We stopped for about a 15 minute break to stretch and water.  I had made some of this instant tea that I swallow prodigious amounts of in the summer.  We brought along 1 32oz bottle of this on the hike.  Normally, Ruth avoids this nasty stuff like it was ebola, but today that bottle was nearly drained by the time we left Govt Peak.

     An hour later we were still poking along the trail along the ridge between Govt Peak and the intersection with the Lost Lake trail.  I had thought we should be nearly there by now, but the going was slow and tough.  Although the trail is high up on a ridge, it actually rolls up and down the terrain between larger hills on the ridge.  The map in the newspaper from the park office does not show terrain very well.  The area of this trail is very wet, very muddy, strewn with fallen logs and rocks, and full of mosquitoes.  The best way to describe this trail is “Around the , over the roots, through the mud, under the log, and up the hill.  Repeat.”  This is one of the more rugged trails I’ve ever been on.  Only bush-whacking would be more difficult.  At this point our weaknesses (knee and leg) were making themselves known.  Seem like 6 miles is all my leg will take without substantial rest of 45 minutes or more.  We were right about the 6 mile mark.  My boots are about done in as well.  I noted that in the previous couple short hikes I’d done the week prior.  So, in addition to my leg, my feet were beginning to hurt, something I’m not accustomed to having happen.

     The mosquitoes found me here as well.  Deet was merely a suggestion to stay away for the clouds that existed in the spot.  I had to break out the head net a couple times.

Around the rock.  Over the Log.  Through the mud.  Up the hill.

     Finally, at 17:15 we made the intersection.   We took a 10 minute break here and discussed how this was the fun part of the hike.  The fun begins when the pain sets in and you eventually overcome or adapt and keep moving along.  Sure, it’s not fun at the moment, but four months later around a campfire, shoot, you’re heroes.  Suppose that depends upon the ilk that is sitting around the fire with you, now doesn’t it?

     At a lake just past Govt Peak there is a campground.  On this day it was occupied by two young men.  Somewhere in the mires that was the way we had come we met another hiker (coming from the opposite direction of course).  He was outfitted for camping and looked like he wanted nothing more than to crawl into a ball and sleep.  I didn’t think he could look any unhappier until he asked about the campground and told him it was occupied.  He also asked about water between us and Govt Peak.  The lake is the only water between the intersection and the peak.  Oh, there are several streams.  I know.  We crossed them all.  None are suitable for gathering water unless you really really REALLY need it.

     After the intersection the trail begins a downward route.  Mostly downward.  There are still some ups in order to go down again.  The same story as the last part of the trail – mud, roots, logs, and rocks.  Shortly after the intersection the trail sticks along a creek that flows down the hill.  The creek has a couple of smaller, very nice waterfalls, before the named Trap Falls.   We thought we had hit Trap Falls only to discover the real Trap Falls 12 minutes down the trail.

Trap Falls

     We met the next trail intersection at 17:53.  This left us about 2 miles of flatter (and muddier) hiking before we would undertake the climb to the Escarpment.  Spirits were dipping just a bit.  We were not making quite the time we had hoped and our body issues were becoming larger issues.  Ruth’s knees were even bugging her on downhill sections.  My hip was very tight and my left thigh was pretty much done in.  I needed a long long break, but we were now chasing daylight.  There was no time for rest.  That section between Govt Peak and Trap Falls was a very tough trail and left us tired and a bit demoralized.  We’d been on the trail for five hours and had not yet made 10 miles.

     Past the Union Springs intersection the creek becomes increasingly enveloped by a canyon.  At one point there is a waterfall that looks to be at least 30ft.

     At 18:17 we hit the first bridge to cross the Carp River once again, but this time on the other side of the lake.  A note was pinned to the bridge, “Bryce.  10:10am.  I need leaves of two.”  We were not sure what this meant but I remarked that I usually need at least four or five to get the job done.

     The trail strikes through the muddy and swampy bottom lands and in many places the trail is a set of two by sixes laid in the mud side by side.  Thank Heaven for those.

     We began our climb at 18:40.  The parking lot is 4.3 miles away.  We were beat.  We were wishing that sign said 1.3 miles.

     After 15 minutes of steep climbing the trail levels out, but only for a short bit.  We topped the first of three points on the Escarpment trail at 19:10.  We ran across a campground with some teenage girls and their 20-something group leader.  We were probably the only people they had seen in a few hours and asked us to take their picture.  I grabbed their camera and was so tired and out of it.  I could not figure out how to use the view finder.  One of the girls remarked that I had the camera backwards.  Yes, indeed.  Well, they have a picture of some grisly looking middle-age dude on their camera.  To really age myself I told them,  “well, you got a picture of me on your roll now.”   Your roll.  Yep.

Along the Escarpment Trail - Looking towards Govt. Peak

     By the time we had topped the second point at 17:52 the going was very tough.  Ruth asked me where the words of encouragement were.  She was really looking for me to motivate her those last two miles.  Unfortunately, I had to concentrate very hard to make sure I did not roll an ankle or pull a calf muscle.  My left leg from hip to toes was not working well at all.  I could move it, but only in a limp.  Then, shooting pains in my ankle.  Never had that happen before.  All of this simply from the sciatic nerve causing the muscles to tire quickly.  Once tired they being to tighten and cramp. Once that happens the tendons join in and they do not want to flex.  This is an excellent time to roll ankle or twist a knee.  Plus, the pain was not much fun either.  I was in a very very unhappy state.  I’d been there once before on a climb up the side of a ridge in the Olympic Natl Forest back in 2005.  I knew I could make it, but I’d need to pay very close attention.  Sorry Ruth.  She kept up the pace and kept looking back to make sure I was okay.  She was hurting quite a bit as well, but she took up the reigns and kept moving ahead.

Heading west on Escarpment trail

Lake of the Clouds

Even my hat was tired.

      

We hit the last trail junction and 0.3 miles to go at 20:55.  Finally, at 21:09 we were finished.  We threw our gear in the car and promptly left.  We stopped at the first place we could find food.  We had soda and cheap frozen piece at a bar just outside the park.  The kitchen closed at nine.  Pizza was all he had.  One of the best pizzas we’d had in a while.  Well, at least it went down easy.  We needed that.

     Now, for as much pain and distress I was in the last 3 miles of the hike, sitting in the car for 15 minutes, then getting up and walking around for 2 or 3 minutes, sitting again for 20 minutes and then getting up again (to the bathroom) was pretty much the rest I needed.  My hip and leg relaxed.  They were still very tired and feet hurt, but if I had need to go another 2 miles right then I could have.  I needed a 45 minute break on the trail where I could sit, lay down, stretch and really rest.  As bad as I had been on the Escarpment  you’d think I would be laid up for days. Only laid up for 45 minutes.  Lesson learned.  I need rest.

     Even besides our aches, that is one tough trail.  The park office has that route at 14 miles.  It is Route E on their list of overnight hikes.  In actuality it is 13.1 miles.  We used the map that is in the newsletter.  Except for the contour markings this is a good map.  There is another map that can be downloaded that has the mileage of the sections marked on it.  I neglected to print that off.  Had we had that we may have been able to keep our morale up on the ridge.  We’ve done some tough hikes and I done my bit of bush-whacking.  This trail is very rugged and although the individual climbs themselves are not like climbing in the mountains, the constant up and down takes a hard toll.

     There is a reason we did not see pass people on the trail in our direction.  People do not go that direction for the entire loop.  They take the Escarpment first and head east towards the Lost Lake trail and experience an entirely different elevation profile!

     There is usually a however, and this time is no exception.  Despite physical suffering, walking west along the escarpment into a setting sun is a not just beautiful, it is hard earned privilege.

Deep in the Forest

     There is a great deal of “open” country in the Ottawa National Forest.  I put open in quotes because most of it is under the protective arm of various logging companies.  They create a number of the roads, maintain them, and gate them at their own discretion.  The tolerate tourists and hunters, but only so much (and that’s not much).  What tolerance they impart is only because they themselves are hunters in those same woods.   Those that I’ve met don’t understand recreational activities beyond hunting and fishing.   Still, the woods are open and offer solitude and surprises around each bend of the road or river.  Preparation is very important.  Although this is not huge country it is large enough to get yourself into huge trouble.

     There are points at which you can be 4 to 5 miles from pavement, 7 or 8 miles from another person and more than 30 slow miles from a medical facility.  The logging roads twist and turn.  New ones are created while old ones become muddy two tracks rarely travelled.  Foot paths disappear when the local hunter retires to Florida and no longer visits his favorite spot.

     In 2004 Google Earth did not exist.  Mapquest and navigation software did not extend past state highways.  Trekking into the Ottawa National Forest was done with maps last updated in 1983 (and in one quad 1972).  Not only had the logging roads changed, but the forest itself was drastically different in places.  “Ok.  Beyond that creek crossing we’re going to come to a clearing.  Looks like it’s about a ½ mile past the clearing.”  A half mile past the creek the path disappears in stand of plantation pine.  The trail lost in a 14 year old mass of pine needles and deadfall.

Driving along M-64

     There are some great resources these days.  The visitor centers sell an Ottawa Forest map for $10.  Spend your $10 towards a DeLorme atlas.  The forest map is pathetic at best.  It shows pretty much just paved roads and nothing else.  The DeLorme shows everything and matches another great resource nicely: Google Earth.  The combination of the two, along with a little bit of Google Maps and Microsoft Maps will give you everything you need to head out.  Take along a GPS and compass.  Even if you are in a truck, take along stuff to get you through a cold night in the woods.   A flat tire on Camp 4 Rd at 6pm means you might as well park along the side the road and set up a shelter.

     The falls along the Black River are a well visited destination.  Well they should be.  I would not leave that part of the U.P. without having followed the Black River from Great Conglomerate Falls to the harbor.  The trails to the falls are well maintained, but in wet weather are muddy and buggy.  Even on a summer weekend the falls are visited by many, but do not expect crowds.  You will run into a family or two or three along the way.  If you are even more adventurous you can find logging roads and foot trails to Chippewa Falls and Algonquin Falls.  Beware, private property abounds in that area and you’ll get more than a harsh word if you stumble on their land.

     Black River Harbor is a beautiful park where you can watch fishing boats coming and going, stroll along the rocky/sandy shore of Superior or hike into the woods to the falls.  A young family can easily spend an afternoon at the harbor. 

     One of our transition areas during either ’03 or ’04 was at the harbor, just as the sun was setting.  After the team was fed, watered, changed, and sent back into the woods, Mark and I went down to the boat piers and met some guys cleaning their haul.  Not only cleaning, but frying it up right there at the table.  We helped clean a few and were well fed for our trouble.

Beach at Black River Harbor

Black River Harbor

     There are a number of places between Rd 519 and Rd 505 that serve some good memories, but the two best are a bridge of the Presque Isle River and a small canyon.  I knew we’d have time to find just one of those and I thought the canyon might be the best one.  This was a huge surprise to me (and to Leo) when it was discovered.  Leo was just looking at a topo map for a small canyon.  When they went into the woods to find it, wow.  The canyon starts at a logging road as a trickle of water into a culvert.   The opening is about 25ft wide and is mud, boulders, and thorns.  The first 5 yards of the canyon are rocks and some dead fall.  The canyon narrows a little more as the walls climb to about 20ft above.  The grade becomes slightly steeper and the canyon narrows sharply to about 10ft wide.  At the same time the walls are still 20 to 25 feet above.  Then… the canyon opens into a 30ft deep bowl hanging with ferns and moss, dripping water, and surrounding by towering birch and maple.  We couldn’t stay and I wasn’t able to get a picture, but the image is seared into my past indelibly.

     I wanted to find that canyon.  I was able to track down Leo, but he was unable to locate the actual coordinates.  Using Google Maps, Microsoft Maps, and Google Earth I found two likely candidates.  We knew the region and the logging roads this canyon was along, so it was again, looking at topo maps to find the one that fit the description.  I confirmed with Leo the coordinates and he agreed that was it.  We would see.

     There is a large stretch of forest between Rd 513 and Rd 505.  This area is all forest and is dotted with logging roads, and little else.  On the east side there are some private residences, but the rest of the forest is home to trees and logging companies… and us!

     The day that we took in the falls along the Black River we thought we might have enough time to track down the canyon from the east.  That meant navigating a maze of logging roads, but we were game.  Unfortunately for us, about a mile and half in the road was gated.  The logging companies like to do that.  That makes sure that vehicles aren’t getting in their way or getting to their equipment.

     A couple days later we went in from the west.  The concern would be running into a convoy of logging trucks.  These logging roads are wide enough for one vehicle and there are precious fews places to pull off to the side.  After about 3 or 4 miles we passed a notable intersection and I knew we were close.  I stopped the jeep and pulled out the GPS and map.  As I fiddling with them, the roar of an engine came from directly in front of us and there was the first of four trucks heading in our directions.  The intersection was 200 yards behind us on a curving logging road with a steep drop off.  There are many people out there who can back up a vehicle better than I.  In fact, a blind man with no arms could back up a vehicle better than I.  We made it without running off and the lead driver reminded us that they’d be running trucks all day.  I yelled out to him to ask how many were out there, but he didn’t hear so I just waved and he moved on.  He wasn’t happy.  I wanted to know how many trucks they had.  The roads are not any wider for them than anyone else.  They need to communicate their coming and going and time things so they don’t run into each other where there are no turn-outs.  The dump trucks are heading from the quarry into the woods and then back out, hauling gravel for the new access roads. They come and go far more frequently.  The log trucks head to the mill and then come back.  The mill is typically further away.  They’ll make a few trips a day, but not nearly as many as the dump trucks.  If you know how many of each you can time when you leave.

     The intersection was actually an intersection of three roads, two gravel and one dirt.  There was space to park the jeep where it wouldn’t be in the way of anything that happened to drive by.  We started walking back up the road.  Ruth was the first to spot the canyon from the road.  The opening was exactly as I remembered.  Ruth took a look at the rocks, deadfall, mud, and brambles and figured this adventure would be mine.  We’d hiked the Porkies the day before.  This would be rugged and I think she was rugged-ed out.  I started making my way into the canyon.  Where the walls started closing in there was much more deadfall than 9 years ago.  Looking up at the top of the walls it was obvious there had been significant blow down a few years ago.  The bowl was littered with fall maple and birch.  The sides were far less fern and moss and more thick vines and brambles.  The walls did not even seem that high anymore, likely due to the lake of trees at the top.  I was disappointed at the lost beauty, but I was glad that I had come back and found that treasure that once was.

Not what it once was.  :-(

     We walked back to the jeep and started walking down that gravel road.  According to the map that road would find its way to within 50 yards of Lake Superior.  We thought we’d follow and see if it would lead us to the lake, or at least cliffs above the lake.  The road started out as well maintained gravel, but gradually it was obvious the road was less used.  We listened to the coming and going of the trucks, but their sound gradually faded away.  As we walked along the road a long canyon opened up on one side.  Not deep, but still an unexpected site.  Butterflies played among the wildflowers.  Birds flittered about.  A beautiful sunny day with temps in upper 60s and we were miles from pavement.  We were at about a point where we were thinking about how much further we’d go before we turned around and then… 40ft maybe 50ft at the most… a bear walked across the road.  The creature glanced at us without breaking its loping stride and continued into the woods.  We stopped dead and listened.  The thought was that we’d hear the bear continue to walk through the woods, but there was no sound.  2 minutes, 3 minutes, another crack of a branch by the side of the road.  We waited another 5 minutes and we did not hear anything to indicate the animal had moved on.  We figured that this was more his woods than ours.  We’d gone far enough and turned around.

Walking along a logging road

     We topped off the afternoon with a quick visit to Little Girls Point, another must-stop destination.

     On our way back, just on the edge of Bessemer, seven deer slowly crossed the road from a church yard across to a residence back yard.  The couple were out tending flowers in their yard while the deer stopped traffic and walked within feet of the couple.  I yelled out “Hey!  You need to keep them on a leash!”  The deer must be frequent visitors.  The couple was not really all that surprised to see them there.

Still in the U.P.

     I have been very fortunate in the last dozen or so years to have visited some places most people only dream about.  Even more fortunate that some of those are within a few hours drive of where I call home.  The forests of Northern Michigan are not those of Ontario or Alaska, but they are some of the wildest country one can touch in the Midwest.  They offer a variety of scenery and activity that few places can match.

     Since 2003 I dream of those woods almost nightly.  I cannot express the appreciation I have for being able to share that space, those memories, with Ruth, my wife and best hiking partner.