One of the many places I'd always dreamed of putting my feet on is the grounds of Yosemite National Park. This park turned out to be even more magnificent that I'd imagined, but also less impressive than I'd hoped as well. That said, if you have a chance to make it to Yosemite, drop what you are doing and find your way there. Ruth and I did just that in early August 2011.
http://www.nps.gov/yose/index.htm
Day 1 - Tioga Road and Saddlebag Lake
Our first day there we got a rather late start. I'll hold off on the rant for that, except to say that I prefer to be on the trail by 0800. That means getting out of bed earlier. That implies getting to bed earlier.
So, the first day we went into the village and made reservations for a couple activities for the following days. Then we drove and drove. We headed up the Tioga road for a few hours of driving. The sites along the road were pretty enough, very enjoyable. This is a different kind of mountain that the Pacific Northwest and I found myself making comparisons of the vegetation, rock, and general lay of the land. That is, when I wasn't busy looking for a way to pass or be passed.
Yosemite, I think, is a native word for "High Traffic" or "Many People". There is no place in Yosemite that is not highly populated by visitors. Actually, that is not entirely accurate. A friend of my is an expert on Yosemite, having visited there dozens of times and having been a guide at times as well. I would certainly like to spend a few days there with him. I enjoy his company to begin with, but in a place where he is so familiar... that can only be an excellent adventure (dude!)
As the road climbed to over 9000ft we passed by a few trail heads packed with cars. The day was very sunny, clear, typical day in Yosemite in August. The temps favored us very well, being in the mid 70s at that altitude. We stopped for a few moments at Tenaya Lake, an interesting formation. The place was packed with swimmers, sailboards, and other manner of tourism. In a future visit this would make a nice place to have a lunch picnic. I'd like to see a sunset from the Eastern shore as well.
Onward we drove, past Tuolumne Meadows and out of the park. We were interested in getting some altitude and since we were starting late in the day (at the visitor's center about 10:30), the ranger pointed us towards Saddlebag Lake. At over 10,000 feet, Saddlebag Lake hangs just below the treeline and is one of several mountain lakes that feeds the Dana Fork of the Tuolumne River.
At Saddlebag we were lucky and found a parking spot. Although there were many cars we saw only a few groups of people at the South end of the lake. Most were down at lakeside casting out to snag whatever fish might be stocked. Our goal was hike the perimeter of the lake. We made it to the North side of the lake and then took the ferry back. Daylight was fading, I was fading, water was nearly gone, and we were not able to find the trail in the swampy area at that end of the lake. There were about a dozen people around the North end and when the ferry arrived more folks came out of nowhere to catch the ferry.
 |
| Ruthie! |
 |
| Saddlebag Lake - East shore |
Most of the terrain was rocky and the treeline was just above us, maybe 100m up the slopes. Tantalizing. I kept telling Ruth, if I had an extra hour I'd make the treeline.
The lake was crystal blue. I was reminded of Crystal Lake just below Long's Peak in Colorado. Same feel, smell, temperature, wind.
 |
| North End Saddlebag Lake |
The North end of the lake was swampy, with swiftly running water. Foot trails meandered everywhere causing us to lose the trail altogther. We made our way to the dock and the lake. We considered just trying to cross the stream, but a after a couple of half-hearted attempts to step across those slippery rocks and ankle deep water we decided we were ready to take the easy way back to the car.
On the ferry we talked with a group of women who had been there all day hiking around the lakes that form along the stream on their way down from North Peak and Mt. Conness.
On the way back out of Yosemite, along the Tioga Road, we stopped at Tuolomne and had some food. We had been apprised that the food was expensive but very good. The food was expensive.
As daylight was fading we stopped at Tuolumne Grove of Sequoias. We were quite tired and Ruth was hoping the walk would not be far... and there would be no uphills. No problem. The walk was only a little over a mile and there was only downhill to the grove! Ok, yes, uphill a mile on the way back. The stop was very well worth it. I was already at a point where my hips hurt from sitting in the car so long. The walk was very nice. The view of the trees was even better.
The drive down the ridge to the valley gave us views of a forest fire on the other side of the valley. As it was night we were simply not able to get a picture that captured the forest fire the way it was presented to our eyes.
Day 2 - Horsie Ride
Well, mules anyway. The pretty and very touchy young lady at the end of the line rode a horsie.
I've discovered that my back and sciatica are no longer suited for riding four legged creatures. I need more back support than my legs in stirrups can manage.
We took a half day ride from the valley part way up towards Vernal Falls. The ride up was interesting, but did not provide many views. At the hairpin turns where one could look out over the valley, focus was required to stay on the animal as it made it's way up the rugged rocky trail. My little friend kept trying to take me off his back by dragging me across rocks that stuck out above the trail. I can't say I care much for riding anymore. The way back down I was in excruciating pain. My back and left leg were cramping up as I tried to maintain balance while the beast picked it's way down the side of the mountain.
Sorry horse lovers, but any animal that simply takes a dump whenever and where ever does not rank very high on my likable list. Not just my ride, but others as well, it was clear that these animals barely tolerated us humans.
At the top we took a 30 minute break for a sandwich lunch and had great views of Vernal Falls and Nevada Falls.
Ruth had a good ride although she had some anxiety about my well being. That was too bad, although I was in pretty rough shape I was never at a quitting point, even when my leg cramped right as we were make a sharp, steep, downward turn. At the same time the nasty four legger was trying to wipe me across a rock abutment.
Ruth still has that little girl love of horses. The thing could have bit her fingers off her left hand and she'd blame herself.
The ride was an adventure but isn't something I'd need to do again.
Would highly recommend for stable teenagers and adults. Younger than 15? There is a less steep and shorter ride available.
Do it!! You likely won't regret it.
Day 3 - Panorama Trail
Hike Day!!!
I've ranted about this before. When embarking on a hike be sure that your electronic equipment is prepared the night before. If you don't know how to use your GPS, leave it in your backpack. If you are not sure about the quality of batteries in said GPS, leave it off. If you filled up your SD card on your camera discover that the night before the hike, not at the start of the hike.
We took the guided tour bus from the valley up to Glacier Point. The plan was then to hike the Panorama Trail to the Mist Trail and down back into the valley. The bus ride up to Glacier Point was quite a bit of fun. The driver, Dave, was knowledgable, and peppered everything with a wry sense of humor that I can only approach on my best days. We were up close and personal to the forest fire we saw two days before. We also came up close and personal to a BEAR! This was the only bear we saw on the trip, though reports of them lurking among the streams of visitors abound.
Dave also clued us in that the forest fire that we were to drive through was caused by a lightning strike and was very carefully being kept alive. Some visitors may not be aware of the need for fire in our forest and grasslands. Yosemite employs a thoughful approach to fire management. Details on Fire Management at Yosemite can be found beginning at this link.
http://www.nps.gov/yose/parkmgmt/current_fire.htm
The air quality was definitely poor on the ridge and in the valley. Two days before the air quality was perfectly fine, but both Ruth and I found sinus congestion to be a growing issue as we spent time at Yosemite. We snore enough as it is. We need no further help! Visibility in the morning and early afternoon were good, but pretty hazy. As the afternoon progressed visibility down into the valley and out to the other side of the valley was quite poor.
The bus unloaded us at Glacier Point around 11:00. We poked through the store there and took in the views from the edge. Glacier Point has spectacular views of the features of Yosemite. The valley, Half Dome, the Falls are easily visible from Glacier Point.
We spent probably a half hour at Glacier Point and then began the trek down the Panorama Trail. All along the trail there views out where Half Dome, Nevada Falls, Vernal Falls, Washington Column, and North Dome are just off to the left.
The entire valley was just below our feet.
After a mile down the trail Ruth realized here camera was not taking pictures anymore. We quickly discovered that the CF card was full!!!! Remember what I mentioned at the beginning of the post? I had to really contain myself (we are on vacation, we have daylight, no big deal). We spent nearly an hour sitting on the side of the trail while she picked through over 700 pictures to see which ones to keep. Ruth kept asking for my help in deciding, but I assured her she didn't want me to decide how to handle this.
Now, I understand one perspective. The day is beautiful. The sun is out. Tbreeze is cool. We found shade and a place to sit. Why not spend an hour just taking in the view below? There are really three reasons why not.
Firstly, often-times on a hike in the mountains there is a long way to go and a little daylight to get there. I've been chased by storms, darkness, and pain while on the trail. Time spent means water spent and food spent. On a hike like this where there are many many people that means that the last half of your hike is spent tired, thirsty, and miserable. On a trail where the nearest person is 5 miles away, that means perhaps not making an appearance at work on Monday.
Secondly, we knew, as do all visitors to Yosemite, that there are other places along that trail to spend an hour that would be more comfortable and perhaps more memorable. Though, I have to say, I will not long forget my hour spent sitting on a stump only 20 minutes from where we started.
Lastly, I'd be a terrible hunter. The reason I don't hunt has nothing to do with an aversion to killing animals. Neither am I a vegetarian, nor do I want to be. Although, have you ever seen a horde of zombies attacking a broccoli patch? No, I'm not a hunter only because I just cannot sit still while in the woods. I have this deep need for movement. I spend only a little time admiring views, and streams, and what-not, because I just need to keep moving. Smell the roses? Sure thing. Done! Now let's move out.
Ruth tolerated my anxiety well. I think we still amaze each other with what we'll put up with in each other. Quite a woman.
Glacier Point sits at over 7200ft. The next point of interest on the map is Illilouette Falls, 1.6 miles downhill. The Falls are at around 5800 to 5900ft. Right at the Falls the trail climbs slowly back up to Panorama Point and about 6300ft. Trail continues to climb up to over 6500 ft as it finds its way around the point and then to Nevada Falls.
We took a little lunch break near Illilouette Falls and soaked in the sun.
 |
| Below Illiouette Falls |
As we began to climb Ruth began flagging. On the trail we are opposites. She handles the downhills like a mountain goat. I pick and stumble my may along. On the uphills she finds religion and prays for an early death. I slowly but steadily work my way up the switchbacks.
The climb from Illiouette to the top of the ridge is only about 700ft and occurs over the course of more than a mile. There was only one set of two switchbacks that made me break a sweat. I think that the poor air quality played a major factor in Ruth's discomfort. She plugs along, though. She'll not quit, plus how can you quit? Where would you go? Back is up and onward is up. We took very frequent breaks and made the high point of Panorama Ridge.
We had a good time along that part of the trail trying to pick out the features and spot where we were on the map. My map reading skills are passable, but certainly not what they should be. I used to adventure race with a guy, Dan, who could spot landmarks on a map with his left closed and right eye blinded. Here's another Kevin Bacon moment. I almost bought his future wife's previous house. How 'bout them apples!
Ruth took pictures of various plants while we tried to identify them from the 5 minutes we spent studying a board on vegetation at the visitor's center. We snapped a couple picks of a bird and chipmunk, about the only life we saw on the trail that was not human.
As far as the human traffic, there was plenty. Particularly at the beginning, near Glacier Point, there were several groups of hikers. Our 60 minute picture deletion period kept us behind some of those groups, but there was never a time we were not within earshot of other hikers. Usually at least one group within view. Except at the water falls where water play was involved, people were quiet and respectful. We could hear the hikers talking as they came within a few feet, but you could not hear hikers far off in the distance as we did at Devil's Lake (see that post for more complaining). Though crowded, the experience was not diminished for it.
We met a lone hiker near the turn to head to Nevada Falls or take a right and head out into the wilderness and the Merced lakes. He and some friends had been camping at Merced lakes and were now making their way to Glacier Point and then down into the Valley via Four Mile Trail. At this point Ruth and I had been on the trail some 5.5 miles. He still had about 10 miles to his car and had already covered over 11 miles. Wow. To be 20 years old again. His friends were no where in sight. Upon leaving him I realized he had no pack and only a 16 oz bottle of water. Many questions.
Nevada Falls is a short climb down from that intersection. There is another intersection just before the Falls. A left turn would take us back to where we parked our mules the day before.
Nevada Falls was packed with people. They make the climb up the Mist Trail or the Muir Trail, view the Falls and then head back down again. I hold no disdain for that endeavor, even with having covered seven miles of trail. The climb up, and down, is shall we say... notable.
The area around the falls is a flat worn rock that is excellent for catching the sun. We spent a good 45 minutes with our feet in the frigid water taking the sun and enjoying the cool mountain air. The temp up there was probably not quite 80F. Perfect.
The only bad news was on the posters about the three missing hikers. Two went into the water above Vernal Falls and got caught in the current. Their friend waded deeper in to help them. All three went over. If you ever see the Falls you'll understand that it is not likely they will find the bodies intact. Very tragic.
These are not small waterfalls. I've played around in some small falls on the Black River in Northern Michigan, but Vernal and Nevada are not those kind of waterfalls. If you wish to play in the water of these falls stay well up stream.
 |
| Nevada Falls |
 |
| Vernal Falls |
The path down from Nevada Falls to Vernal Falls was a nightmare of stone steps. Even Ruth described some difficulty negotiating these steps. My trip down was, well, I kept my mouth shut. Downhill does not treat me well. Steps do not treat me well. As you approach Vernal Falls you begin to understand why it is called the Mist Trail. Especially after you cross the bridge and have the vantage points of Vernal Falls... You might mistake yourself for being in an Irish countryside valley. The rocks are slick and the mist hangs in the air. Moss and greenery grows on every possible surface. The stone steps of the trail are narrow and wet. Occasionally, metal pipes form a handrail on the trail, but these are of little comfort. The area around Vernal Falls was simply fantastic. Worth the trip, whether coming up or going down.
8.2 miles after we'd started and over 6 hours later we hit the valley floor.
Day 4 - Wawona and Mariposa Grove
The plan for Day 4 was to drive to Wawona and take the shuttle bus to Mariposa Grove. Both of us were a bit beat up from the hike the day before. My left knee had bothersome tendinitis from the descent to the Valley. Ruth was just plain leg weary and had a blister on one toe the size of Delaware. Yow! So, walking opportunities were going to be short. Turns out we walked more than we thought we would.
We knew we couldn't dawdle much on the drive to Wawona, which took us on part of the bus route from the day before. On the way up there is a tunnel and just before the tunnel there is a pull-out. I beg you, please pull out and take many many pictures.
 |
| Yosemite Valley from the West |
The smoke from the fire had already filled the valley at 0900. That is easily seen in the pictures.
 |
| Map showing fire area |
At Wawona we spent a little time in the gift shop. More than I'd care to, but yesterday was do what Mikey wants. Today was "sure thing, Dear" day. Take it easy and just do whatever.
There were people, people, everywhere. We missed the first shuttle bus to Mariposa by about 50 people. We missed the second because the length of the line to the women's bathroom was rivaled only by that of the mighty Mississippi. We caught the third bus. The driver was giving some interesting facts about the area, particularly he described some of the plants and wildflowers. Unfortunately, the noise of conversations on the bus kept us from hearing more than a 1/3 of what he said. Still, we used that information to spot some of those described flora while we walked through the Mariposa Grove of Sequoias. We probably even identified some correctly.
The tram ride at Mariposa is not cheap. Actually, few things at Yosemite are cheap and whether good or bad, nearly everything takes credit cards. Have plenty on your credit limit or bring lots of cash. Be willing to spend it freely and you'll have a good time. The lady at the ticket booth has a son who lives in La Valle, WI. She spent a couple months each Winter at her son's cabin in the woods outside La Valle. Snow shoeing, skiing, and ice fishing. How about that! Summer in California and Winter in Wisconsin.
Still, take the tram ride at least on the way up to the grove. Then walk around and maybe hop a tram on the way down or just walk all the way down. We took the tram up and it was an informative ride. We spent a good 90 minutes at the grove itself, walking slow through the trail and taking a picture of anything and everything.
The size of these trees are indescribable outside of scientific measurements. I can well imagine the awe of the first time a person would walk up over the North Ridge and see these monsters.
The Sequioa is still being cut down in places, even though it is protected. Manifest Destiny or Rampant Stupidity? Who can tell.
We hopped another tram and took it about halfway down. Then we walked the rest of the way.
 |
| Mariposa |
 |
| Mariposa |
 |
| Notice trees growing together |
The history of the area was fascinating. There was and still is the classic struggle between modern progress and natural preservation taking place at Yosemite. I became quite impressed with the life of Galen Clark.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galen_Clark
 |
| Galen Clark Cabin |
 |
| Wawona Inn |
The Wawona Inn is a first class resturant, especially in price, but the food was also very good. The setting was fabulous. We spent 45 minutes just relaxing on the porch and reading/napping and then had a good supper.
We should have timed things a little differently, but didn't think about it. We took our time on the way back to the valley and snapped some great picture of the waterways, and views. We stopped at nearly every turnout to see what we could see.
What would have been best is if we would have given ourselves a chance to get to the Tunnel Turnout before the sun went down. Now, we can only imagine the Valley at Sunset.
Still, we snapped a good picture of the valley, but not quite at sunset. We still did see a good sunset further up the mountain.
 |
| Sunset At Yosemite |
 |
| Yosemite Valley after Sunset |
